The Beginner’s Guide To Investment Skincare

Maintenance

By which I mean regular facials. When asked where they invest when it comes to their skin, three out of three Glossier employees surveyed responded “RESCUE SPA” while running around wildly and displaying Danuta’s likeness tattooed onto their biceps. Consider booking yourself an appointment with someone you trust (this is the time to build a relationship, not flit around to just anyone) and see them twice a year. The professional-grade microdermabrasion and extractions alone will have you seeing the results for months on end. Also, talk about cumulative effects: When someone knows your skin, you can work towards a goal together instead of shooting in the dark alone. Think of this as your skin accountant. Didn’t think I’d take the metaphor that far, did ya? – Emily Ferber x Into The Gloss

The Definitive Guide to In-Flight Skincare via Conde Nast Traveler

“Avoid eating airplane food, because all that salt will make you puffy. Think nutrition, and bring fruit with you. Apples and oranges help replenish your body’s fluids. Once you land, do a mini-facial: double cleanse with a milky cleanser, exfoliate with Biologique Recherche Lotion p50, and then layer serums while massaging your face. You want to get the circulation going all over your body. I try to do headstands, or you can just lie down on your back with your legs propped up against the wall. It’s terrific. It’s a quick revival and you’re ready to go out.” —Danuta Mieloch, Founder of Rescue Spa

Phoebe Tonkin x Into The Gloss

“My skincare routine has changed since I shot my Top Shelf, for sure! One of the biggest changes was that I started using all Biologique Recherche. I have this girlfriend Hayley, at her house we would always inevitably end up drinking wine, and after three glasses of wine she was like, ‘Come into the bathroom, we’re doing a facial!’ And she’d always give me these Biologique facials with all these serums, and the moisturizer, all of it. I’d wake up in the morning with a slight hangover but my skin would be amazing! Eventually I took the plunge and got the whole regimen. My favorite trick is to use the Masque Vivant combined with the Masque VIP. I mix it in my hand with baking soda. A facialist told me about that, and it works.  Then I use the Biologique toner, cleanser, and serum.

I’m just obsessed with anything skincare, so if someone has something that I don’t have I’m like, ‘Ooh, what’s that?’ One of my other girlfriends had the Ziip-of course I picked it up. I started using it, and it’s amazing. Like, it actually is amazing. It does work. I have all the gadgets-I have the LED mask, I have it all. I use them when I’m watching TV.

I use Oribe shampoo and conditioner. For the luxe of it all. To be honest, [my hair] is a little temperamental. But when I’m in a good environment, like when I’m at home or when I’m driving, my hair dries really well. I just tuck it under my ears, and it dries in this sort of wavy, sort of straight way. But if it’s not in the right environment and I let it dry naturally, it will be so frizzy. If I just go straight outside or for a walk or something, my hair will get frizzy. So I try to be inside and let it dry. It can be wavy, but it can also be quite frizzy and poofy, which I actually sometimes like. Because it makes me feel like I’m in an 80’s rom-com. I have a straightener and a blow dryer, but I don’t really use them much. Except when I’m in a really big rush and don’t want to wait and see if my hair dries nice or not, I’ll blow dry it properly and straighten it. One thing I learned is called the preemptive dry shampoo. So even when your hair is clean, the night before you go to bed, you put dry shampoo in. And the you wake up and it’s got a good texture. So I do that sometimes. It helps that I have a silk pillowcase, but I’m also too messy and I drool all over it [Laughs].” –Phoebe Tonkin as told to Into The Gloss

Mandy Moore loves P50 too

“I am a huge fan of Biologique Recherche​ P50, and it’s something that’s been a staple in my skin care game for probably five or six years. I love, love, love it. I know it’s harsh for some people, but I use it once a day, usually in the evening. It’s the perfect exfoliator. I don’t feel like my skin is clean unless I use it.” Mandy Moore​ x People​ Magazine

How to Care for Your Skin — While You Sleep NY Times (T Magazine)

Cleanse and Cleanse Again
As a first step, skin-care experts agree that cleansing and toning should never be skipped (or rushed) at night. Danuta Mieloch, the facialist and founder of Rescue Spa, swears by a double-cleanse with Biologique Recherche USA’s Lait U using a muslin cloth to remove any last traces of makeup.

For toner, both Mieloch and Czech use Biologique Recherche P50, which “exfoliates, hydrates and balances the pH of the skin,” Mieloch says.

Personalize Your Serum
Next, according to all of the facialists we polled: an overnight serum. These concentrated liquids contain the highest doses of nutrients, and facialists often combine them to create customized, targeted tinctures.

Moisturize Generously
Lastly, moisturize — and moisturize some more — since the body’s natural hydration levels dip at night. Finish with a rich cream; Mieloch is partial to MBR Skincare Cream Extraordinary ($369) , spiked with ultra-hydrating lanolin and light-reflective gold particles to subtly conceal any imperfections.

One of the most beloved and effective cleansers on the market -via The Strategist

 

Since my skin is both dry and sensitive, and since I find that the two often go hand in hand, I’ve grouped them together for simplicity’s sake. I’ve searched high and low for a cleansing milk that is as spectacular as Biologique’s, and even though I’ve found some pretty convincing dupes, this has, and probably will always, hold the No. 1 spot when it comes to cleansing my dry-ass, sensitive, blemish-prone skin. This cleanser hydrates and soothes intensely, and while it doesn’t actively fight against rashes or blemishes, it preps skin perfectly for serums. I’ve heard some complaints that this cleanser doesn’t do an incredible job of removing makeup. This is true: When I come home with a full face of makeup after a night out, I go in with micellar water first.

Read the full article over at The Strategist

NON-TOXIC RETINOL ALTERNATIVES – mindbodygreen

“Anything with onion and vinegar is great for combating pigment; onion is great for brightening, and vinegar is also great for cleansing and brightening the skin too.” She also highly recommended one of my favorite skin care ingredients for brightening—placenta.
 
What to try: Biologique Recherche P50 Toner, one of Umansky’s favorites, that incorporates sulfur, onion, and vinegar and comes in a range of targeted formulations for sensitive skin, pigmentation, dry skin, oily skin, etc. And if you’re looking to dip your toe into the placenta pool, she recommends trying Biologique Recherche Placenta Serum and Placenta Cream.

Amy Chang x mindbodygreen
 
 
 
 

Coveteur: This Cult Facialist Gave me Bouncy Marshmallow Skin

 

THIS CULT FACIALIST GAVE ME BOUNCY MARSHMALLOW SKIN

Danuta Mieloch of Rescue Spa has clients like Naomi Campbell and Pat McGrath.

By: Katie Becker
Photography: Alec Kugler

Last year, Rescue Spa opened in New York’s Flatiron neighborhood and has become a new obsession among beauty editors. The owner, Danuta Mieloch, whose facials run around $500, came barreling into the city (her original spa is in Philadelphia) with a talent and sprawling, extremely chic spa like we haven’t seen in a long time. She’s gotten raves from VogueAllureNew York, and Into the Gloss. Clients include Pat McGrathNaomi CampbellAmber VallettaSophia AmorusoEva Chen—and now, naturally, me.

That said, I went in for my first facial at Rescue Spa ready to be a critic. I have a complicated sensitive skin/hormonal acne situation that I’ve found most estheticians aren’t equipped to deal with, and I also find that most facialists have a terrible, bullying, know-it-all-complex about skin care (especially acne) that will drive you to never return. Jane Larkworthy wrote about this phenomenon beautifully.

 

 

But Mieloch is as much a psychic remedy as she is a technical wizard. She listened to my diatribe about all the things I’ve tried, didn’t scold me, asked lots of questions, and suggested solutions that lined up with what I’ve already come to know about my skin. There was no “You’ve got it all wrong, everyone you’ve ever talked to is wrong, I will save you!” speech. Instead, she told me what she has been through herself with her own acne, what she thinks I might like (not must do or I’ll die), and then proceeded with such thorough and meticulous extractions that my face had soft, buttery, marshmallow skin for a month afterward. I haven’t felt anything like that in a long time. I would have been petting my cheeks from dawn to dusk if that wasn’t something that could trigger more acne, and my breakouts went down from one a day to about one a week. Mieloch made a devotee out of me, and the Biologique Recherche-heavy routine she suggested—including, yes, P50—has been working really well (though I plan to give it one more month—remember, I’m a skeptic).

Here are some of the important skin care lessons that Mieloch—who tells me she’s done approximately 10,000 facials in her career!—gave me about skin care:

 

 

GOOD SKIN CARE IS LIKE GOOD FITNESS

“I love everybody’s skin, and every skin has its own positives and some challenges. If it’s acne, it’s usually a person with oilier skin, so they don’t have to battle wrinkles. If it’s super dry skin, dehydrated, then we can moisturize more. There’s always an answer, and you can always improve the skin at any age because skin is a living organ that regenerates itself. If you get a cut, it heals. It might be not an overnight sensation, but if we develop a plan, we’ll make it work. That’s how life works. You go to a personal trainer; it’s not an overnight thing.”

DO THE DOUBLE CLEANSE

“Never go to bed without double cleansing your skin. Most of us wear makeup, sunscreen, or a more occlusive cream during the daytime to protect ourselves from the environment. It stays on your skin, oftentimes it’s waterproof, so you need to break it down. Massage your cleanser in and remove that first, and then use a second cleanse for more of a treatment, where you’re really softening and preparing your skin to receive the next step.”

 

 

TRY MILK CLEANSERS

“I love a milky cleanser across the board, for two reasons: If you’re using an oil cleanser it might soften your skin, however, once you remove the oil, it still leaves that film. Long term, it’s not a good solution. And then, the sudsy and the more foamy cleansers, they might over-strip you.”

TECHNIQUE MATTERS

“Cleansing just using your hands only is not enough. You need to really massage; you really need to use your fingers to get into little crevices. Then it’s best to remove it using a washcloth, this way you’re assisting to removing all the buildup. I like the muslin cloths. Or softer, gentler ones, like a baby cloth.”

 

EAT PROTEIN

“I’m happy how people are really pay attention to nutrition. All of a sudden we heard about bone broth, and that’s the best thing for your skin because it’s packed with protein. Our skin is protein; you want the proper protein and fat content, like avocados, and eating things that are collagen-dense.”

BUT BE CAREFUL WITH DIETS

“Dieting is really harmful for skin. Finding your happy weight, and staying within that is really important, because each time you dramatically diet, your collagen fibers are collapsing. Think about: If you lose so much weight, all of a sudden you have stretch marks, your skin is loose, and so forth. As a young girl, it’s not a problem. But as you get older, collagen fibers are not as elastic; so each time you lose so much weight, it’s almost like losing after pregnancy, it takes time to recuperate.”

UNDERSTAND EXTRACTIONS

“Extractions are controversial because they can also spread bacteria. So you have to be really, really careful. By saying I believe in extractions, it’s only if I do them. [Laughs] I know the consequences of what I’ve done, and I can warn my clients [about the healing process afterward]. When people do them at home they squeeze inward, but you have to stretch out and pop up. You’re going under the skin, and pushing it out. You want to feel that the bottom of the pimple is cleared out. But you have to be trained and have done thousands of facials. If you’re tempted or you have that nagging whitehead that is right there, then only do it after a shower, when skin is totally softened, being so gentle, and really sterilizing. Remembering that extractions need to apply alcohol or something antiseptic afterward, because it’s almost like you are puncturing the skin. You have an opening; it’s like mini surgery.”

 

BR – Fluide VIP O2, MBR Medical Beauty Research – Cream Extraordinary, BR – Lotion P50 1970 Original, Environ- C-Quence Serum 3, BR – Masque Crème Biofixine, BR – Lait U Cleanser


SHE’S IN THE P50 CLUB

“It’s the most magical product I’ve come across. P50 is created to balance the pH of the skin, so it’s a little bit like probiotic for your skin. Our skin constantly struggles to stay at the right pH, which is 5.5. When you’re young, you’re more acidic. That’s why younger people have more breakouts—acne loves that state. As you get older, you’re much more alkaline—dryness, dehydration. If you’re balancing your skin with pH, the skin does not have to spend its energy to balance the pH; it spends energy to heal. It’s like a factory, there’s only so much you can pull out of it. The more healthy environment you create for your skin, the better it is.”

INDEED, ADULT FEMALE ACNE IS ON THE RISE

“I think more and more women battle acne, even in their 30s, adult acne. It’s hard to point where the culprit is. It might be [the] fact that we don’t have children as early, or hormonal imbalances, or things like that. It’s hard to tell, with stress and pollution and all that stuff. I think everybody’s different; everybody has different skin, and it’s best to really seek advice first, really expert advice, and then follow that regime and see how it’s working, observing. Getting in tune with your skin I think is the best.”

SHE TRAINED LIKE A NURSE

“I studied skincare in Poland. It’s a three-year study after high school to be an esthetician. You study like a nurse alongside with doctors and nurses, and then you just kind of take up the front direction in the second year and third year. An esthetician is more like a hygienist for a dentist, so you can do certain things more. You can extract deeper, you can remove skin tags and things like that in Poland because it’s an actual profession. I think it’s going this way here.”


“I love this facial,” -Eva Chen

“I love this facial: So between being lazy and pregnant and then nursing for 9 months for each kid, I’ve basically slacked on skincare for a solid four years. I’m beginning to inch back into taking care of my skin and the Biologique Remodeling facial at Rescue Spa helped to kick start that. I never got as many compliments on my skin as I did after getting this facial… I don’t know if it was the LED lights, the electric currents, or the tons of facial massage but… the combination works. I think I’ll get this (not inexpensive, alas) facial 4 times a year.” –Eva Chen