How The Estheticians Do It: Hyperpigmentation

Summertime is the time to protect your skin.

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Questions regarding hyperpigmentation come up in 7 out of 10 appointments and it’s safe to say that it is one of the main concerns in skin treatment rooms. In this post I would like to discuss the ways to prevent hyperpigmentation and share some of my favorite products to treat this common skin disorder.

Hyperpigmentation is caused by an overproduction of melanin (the pigment that gives our skin, hair and eyes its natural color) in the patches of the skin. It is a skin condition that affects every ethnic background and skin tone and is mostly associated with aging. Pregnancy or hormonal fluctuations, UV radiation and photo aging, chemical or UV burn, genetics and allergies are just some of the more typical factors.

Daily use of a broad spectrum sun protection is a sure way to prevent hyperpigmentation caused by exposure to the damaging sun rays. Exfoliation is essential to reduce the build of dead skin cells and to promote skin cell regeneration for brighter skin every day.

Professional treatments such as microdermabrasion, chemical peels and IPL are all effective.

Active Ingredients to look for in products are:

  • Alpha/Beta Hydroxy Acids
  • Arbutin
  • Kojic Acid
  • Azelaic Acid
  • Glabridin/Licorice Root Extract
  • Retinoids
  • Epidermal Growth Factor

Some of my personal favorite treatments to combat hyperpigmentation include:

CLEANSE

Biologique Recherche Lait VIP O2 is an “antipollution” cleanser that brightens and unifies the complexion, eliminates impurities and calms the epidermis.

TONE

Biologique Recherche P50 PIGM400 is the newest formulation of the beloved P50. It enhances epidermal renewal and helps regulate melanin synthesis while respecting and protecting the skin. Lightens the skin, reduces the size of pigmentation marks and prevents them from appearing. Inhibits melanin synthesis. Improves the strength and quality of the epidermis. Unifies and brightens the complexion. Balances pH on the skin’s surface.

TREAT-SERUM

Valmont Clarifying Infusion Brightening Serum is an ultra-concentrated treatment that decreases melanin production and fights hyperpigmentation. It increases skin brightness and complexion evenness to reveal perfectly even-toned skin.

Serum PIGM 400 is a brightening, spot-correcting serum that illuminates the complexion and fights free radicals. It is my personal favorite. Paired with Creme PIGM 400, this powerful duo fights pigmentation and reveals glowing complexion.

Clarifying Lotion and Intensive C Boost by Environ is another great combination for combating visible skin pigmentation. The Clarifying Lotion is a light, non-oily lotion that nourishes the skin with important water-soluble ingredients that inhibit the production of melanin. It maintains the skin’s natural acid mantle and can either be used on small, easily defined pigment blemishes, or as a whole face and neck solution for extensive uneven skin tone. The Intensive C-Boost contains a powerful form of vitamin C ideal for sun damage, pigmentation, fine lines and capillaries as well as for the maintenance of a healthy skin.

TREAT MASK

Valmont Clarifying Pack is a clarifying cream-mask that is rich in illuminating ingredients. Provides visible brightening effect, mattifies and tightens the pores. Just after one treatment the skin is flexible, soft, and gleams with a new radiance. Use it once a week in addition to your current masque treatment.

Environ Revival Masque is a powerful combination of Lactic, Mandelic and Asiatic acids formulated to target the effects of photo-damaged skin and the appearance of uneven skin texture.

The Beautigenix Brightening Mask is a Korean sheet mask that reduces the appearance of sun and age spots, removes signs of fatigue, gives skin a radiant and brighter look, evens skin tone and texture – also improves mild acne. All and all, a perfect on the go solution for someone who has uneven skin tone, dark spots or sun damaged skin.

MBR Beta-Enzyme is a gel-masque based on mild hydroxy acids in combination with a papain enzyme complex for smooth, clear and more radiant skin.

TREAT-INTENSIVE CURE

Cellcosmet Ultra Brightening Elasto-Collagen XT is a real anti-pigmentation face-lift that resculpts the skin injecting it with hydration. Packed full of scientifically selected ingredients, the Ultra Brightening Elasto-Collagen XT serum with its concentration of 15% active stabilized bio-integral cells and expert brightening complex, delivers a complete firming and brightening solution. Whether used as an occasional 12-day treatment or throughout the year, Cellcosmet Ultra Brightening Elasto-Collagen XT revitalizes, progressively lightens natural skin tone, redefines and intensely hydrates the face, neck and décolleté area. The skin’s firmness and ability to bounce back are visibly improved, pigmentary spots visibly attenuated while the facial contours are resculpted and the oval of the face redefined.

  • Post Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH) is one of the more difficult types of pigmentation to get rid off. These red or brown regions of pigment are usually associated with acne, chemical burns, eczema or dermatitis. One of my favorite products to tackle it is Sebuspot by Environ – a mild gel for use on inflamed areas of the skin. It helps reduce congestion and residual redness while at the same time drying up skin blemishes.

MOISTURIZE

Biologique Recherche Creme PIGM 400 is a concentrate of brightening, anti-age spot and protective ingredients.  Its multipolar formulation helps correct existing pigmentation imperfections and prevents new age spots from forming. The complexion becomes increasingly luminous and the skin appears more even. Best when paired with Serum PIGM 400.

Institute Esthederm Clarity System Whitening Brightening Repair Day Cream regenerates and restructures the skin, protects, prevents photo-aging, cell damage and the risk of redness and inflammation.

MBR Luminous Pearl Extreme works on delivering both multi-active anti-aging effects as well as a perfectly balanced and illuminated complexion.

PROTECT

Biologique Recherche Protection UV helps protect the epidermis from the harmful effects of UVA, UVB, and infrared rays. The formula rich in anti-aging, soothing, anti-spot and moisturizing active ingredients helps prevent skin aging and dehydration.
MBR High Protection Face Cream SPF30 protects the skin from sunburn, aging, wrinkles and pigmentation spots which can be caused by excessive exposure to the sun. It smoothes and mattifies skin appearance for an even and healthy tan.
Institute Esthederm Photo Regulator helps reduce pigmentation spots by reducing the contrast between the hyper-pigmented areas and tanned skin. This helps to ensure a consistent and harmonious tan safely.

Summer time is the prime time to protect your skin and prevent stubborn hyperpigmentation caused by excessive sun exposure. Wear a hat, polarized sunglasses and be mindful when out and about. You only have one skin, take care of it now and enjoy the compliments later!

Diana Yerkes

Memorial Day Weekend Skincare Prep with Rescue Spa Esthetician Diana Yerkes

Hello everyone and welcome! My name is Diana Yerkes and I am a licensed esthetician here, at the beautiful Rescue Spa. This weekend is Memorial Day Weekend which means summer is quickly approaching. This time of year we all favor lighter and weightless textures when it comes to our beauty regimens. Today I wanted to share with you some of my favorite products that are heat and humidity approved…

Biologique Recherche Lait VIP O2
MBR Enzyme Cleansing Booster
Biologique Recherche Lotion P50 1970
Biologique Recherche Lotion MC 110
Biologique Recherche Serum Fluide VIP o2
MBR Tissue Activator Serum
Environ Intensive Antioxidant Gel
Environ Avance DFP 312 Cream
BIOLOGIQUE RECHERCHE EMULSION GEL BIOSENSIBLE S.R. (SEBUM REGULATING)
BIOLOGIQUE RECHERCHE EMULSION ORIGINELLE REGENERANTE
JAN MARINI PHYSICAL PROTECTANT SPF45
LIPPMAN COLLECTION RICH GIRL SPF 25 ANTI-AGING HAND AND CUTICLE CREAM
CHANTECAILLE BEAUTE LIP SCREEN TINT NEUTRAL SPF 15

For more information about the products mentioned in this video please visit www.shoprescuespa.com. If you enjoyed today’s video please be sure to comment and subscribe to our channel.  See also Diana’s blog on the Importance of Sun Protection: http://beautyaficionado.com/preventio…

Be well and enjoy the sun responsibly!

Rescue Spa Esthetician,
Diana Yerkes

Could Your Face Wash Be More Effective? Why Double-Cleansing May Be the Answer

It may be the first step in your skin care regimen—but for most of us, putting serious thought into a daily face wash is something of a last priority. If you’re lucky enough to have booked a facial with New York City skin guru Georgia Louise, however, one 60-minute treatment could be all it takes to make you rethink exactly how, why, and when you use a favorite cleanser.

“Our skin can’t function properly at night—repair and regenerate itself—if it’s swimming in toxic chemicals,” she says of the importance of removing every last trace of makeup, sunscreen, and pollutant at the end of the day through a methodical cleansing ritual. At her Upper West Side studio, she starts every session with her signature “triple cleanse,” beginning with a gentle oil massage to lift off superficial dirt. A clay cleanser follows to dislodge deeper impurities; then a layer of alpha hydroxy acids loosens dead cells and blackheads, making for easy extractions.

Louise isn’t the first to swear by carefully choreographed, consecutive washes. The Asian skin-care phenomenon known as double-cleansing—which involves the practice of using a cleansing oil in tandem with a water-based face wash—originated in Japan or Korea, or possibly even further east, in China, as far back as the fourteenth century, according to Alicia Yoon. Historical texts reference Korean women using plant-derived oils both to smooth on face powders—creating their own sort of oil-based foundations—and to remove them from the skin. Rice water, or ground mung beans, were then applied to flush out underlying impurities. In Japan, double-cleansing was born of necessity, as cleansing oils were the only means of removing the white paint-like base that women traditionally wore as a sign of beauty; they followed with a foaming cleanser to refresh the skin and remove oil residue.

By leaving a layer of smoother, healthier, younger skin cells on the surface, the ritual also allows the active ingredients in a good face serum or night cream to penetrate more deeply. And for those looking to incorporate double-cleansing into their routine, here’s how to do it right: Smooth an oil-based formula onto dry skin, circling it over face and eyes for about a minute before removing it with a warm cloth. Next, apply a water-based cleanser that suits your complexion—a gel or foam (like Mizon Egg White Bubble Cleanser) for normal to oily types, a milky emulsion (such as Biologique Recherche Lait VIP O2) for dry or sensitive types. Work it into your skin, then rinse or wipe away for immaculate pores—and a perfectly clean canvas before bed.

Eve Lom Cleanser:  Apply cleanser to the face using circular movements. Dip the muslin cloth in hot water and wring out. Press onto the face and hold for 5 seconds. Repeat 3 times. Rinse the cloths in warm water and remove all traces of make-up and cleanser making circular movements to exfoliate. Rinse cloth in cold water and re-apply to the face for 5 seconds to close the pores. Gently pat skin dry with a towel.

Biologique Recherche Lait VIP O2 cleanser: Apply with fingers to face, neck, and decollete, using light circular movements to emulsify oil and makeup. Remove cleanser with a warm, wet washcloth. Repeat steps to complete a second cleansing. Follow with P50 “1970” and the appropriate serums and cream.

Carry On: In-Flight Skincare


Keeping skin soft and dewy is all about in-flight and touchdown cleansing and moisturizing. The dry air at high altitudes can cause your complexion to dry out, often leading to blemishes. Prep your skin within the first hour of take-off with a great cleanser and makeup remover. We love Biologique Recherche’s Lait VIP O2 1.7 oz cleanser . Tone for a truly thorough cleanse and instant refresher.  We love the convenience of P50 “1970” in it’s 1.7 oz travel size. Next, apply a nourishing face mask with rich ingredients, like Valmont Renewing Pack. This will not only moisturize your skin throughout the flight, but also protect and repair it. Multitask while you mask with Institut Esthederm’s Repair System Eye Contour Lift Patches to ensure that dark circles, puffiness, and signs of fatigue are nonissue. Top up at intervals with a facial spritz, like Biologique Recherche’s L’eauxygenante 1.7 oz spritz which adds a hydrating layer of water, while also acting as a protective veil .

 


Oxygen Blast

Have you ever noticed that when you go away to the country, the beach or the mountains, one of the first things you do is to take a deep breath? Yes it can be a sigh of relief for having escaped the rigors of everyday city living or your crazy boss, but for many of us we take that deep breath simply because we can. Oxygen levels are higher in the country, around the ocean and most certainly in the mountains. Oxygen like water is an essential component to our health and the beauty of our skin. And if you live in the city you probably don’t get enough of it.

Rescue Spa has been advocating oxygen facials for years; I personally am a major fan and love the results an O2 facial can bring. Dull dehydrated skin is instantly rejuvenated with a perfect combination of micro-exfoliation and a light Alpha Beta Peel followed by intense hydration with a cool blast of hyperbaric oxygen. Your skin will be plumper, softer, and smoother. Plus we have a solid range of products to support your O2 regimen.

Last year I wrote about Kate Middleton who revealed that she favored oxygen facials for her good looks. I created a facial for the princess in case she decided to pop into Rescue. Kate hasn’t come in yet but since (in my mind) all of our clients are royalty the following products should work just as well for you. Btw, if you have an event coming up O2 is a wonderful facial to get.

VIP O2 Cleansing Milk
This “antipollution” cleanser eliminates impurities, calms the epidermis, brightens and unifies the complexion. Ultra light, it is ideal for urban dwellers, frequent travelers and stressed devitalized skin.

Masque VIP O2
A layer of this masque around the eyes to help eliminate dark circles from stressful city living and late nights. This oxygenating and moisturizing “antipollution” treatment restores radiance to stressed, asphyxiated skin. It is ideal to soothe sunburn too- leave it in your fridge and slather on.

Crème VIP O2
Apply this moisturizer morning and night. It has a lovely opalescent quality which is lovely on lighter skin tones. This is the perfect antipollution oxygenating cream for immediate healthy skin. Highly recommended for tired, devitalized skin that’s seen too much jet travel and not enough sleep.

Fluide VIP O2
I love this product, it’s a go-to and perfect for every skin tone. The unique formula contained in this serum traps oxygen at the surface of the skin, creating an environment that stimulates the epidermis’ natural functions. This is a flagship and runaway favorite at Rescue as it makes skin lustrous and taut.

If you normally book a classic facial, this will be a nice change for you. I think you’ll love the results.

Esthetician Linda Harding