Into The Gloss: Decoding The Many Versions Of Biologique Recherche P50

P50_ITG

“So you finally decided to buy Biologique Recherche Lotion P50. The tipping point was, perhaps, yet another friend’s rave review, or a Facebook ad from Rescue Spa, or maybe reading about it on Into The Gloss. Regardless, you’ve drank the lactic acid Koolaid, and we salute you for your astute and well-guided consumerism. But now you’re confronted with a brand-new conundrum: There is a small universe of P50 types. Which one is the right one for you?

We’ve talked about P50 for ages, but we’ve never really dove into what makes it so good, until now. For the uninitiated, Lotion P50 isn’t a lotion at all—it’s a French waterweight exfoliating toner that also hydrates and balances your skin’s pH, all in one fell swoop. It also smells like formaldehyde and apple cider vinegar, a scent Emily Weiss lovingly described as “trash face.” But it’s got a cult following. And if you’re in that cult, you know that one of the only places you can get it online is the website for Philadelphia’s Rescue Spa. “It boosts your skin’s very slow, very inefficient natural exfoliation process by immediately removing bad stuff from your skin,” says Danuta Mieloch, owner of Rescue Spa and person more or less to thank for its popularity. (Well, her and Aida Bicaj.) She recommends different versions of P50 for different skin types, and was happy to break them down for us:

For masochists: Lotion P50/P50 1970

P50 1970 is the toughest, roughest, OG version. Stinging and redness is par for the course—but actually, it’s good for any skin type. It’s got all the good stuff you know and love about P50, including a hearty blend of AHAs and BHAs to give you that glow. But what makes P50 particularly special is the mix of sorrell, myrrh extract, myrtle, and onion. (That’s where the smell comes from.) The regular P50 (scratch the 1970) excludes phenol, which is also found in mouthwash. It’s been banned in Europe, but it’s all part of the product that Danuta describes as the “purist’s choice.”

For dry skin: Lotion P50V/P50V 1970

P50V was created for those with skin not too sensitive, not too strong, and perhaps on the normal to dry side. It still does the job, but with the addition of plankton and brewer’s yeast, it’s slightly more conditioning than regular P50.

For super sensitive skin: Lotion P50W/P50W 1970

Or: For when you want effective exfoliation, but just looking at the word “glycolic” flares your skin up. P50W is the best bet—the formula balances lactic and salicylic acid with glycerin and articum lappa root to make it effacaious and gentle. How many products can do both?

For hyperpigmentation: Lotion P50 PIGM 400

The newest member of the P50 line, which contains no phenol at all, was made specifically for people dealing with hyperpigmentation. This version helps control the pigmentation process, stimulating exfoliation and helps brighten dull skin with wasabi extract, palmaria palmata extract, and whatever “fruits titrated in flavonoids” are. Dr. Phillippe Allouche (he helped develop the line) expressed the risk of our skin becoming dull due to external stressors—sun, stress, city air, etc. Absolutely worth checking out if skin tone is your #1 concern, but not as strong as regular P50. But then again, few things are.”

Originally published on Into The Gloss
Photographed by Tom Newton.

Study Shows Men Spend Just as Much as Women on Skincare Products But what exactly are men spending it on?

A young man shaving in the mirror
A young man shaving in the mirror

Hold up. Everything you thought you knew about gender and beauty stereotypes is wrong. According to this study, men and women are spending the same amount of money when it comes to beauty products. But how can this be? Men are supposed to be ambivalent towards skincare and things that are typically classified as “feminine”… right? What are they doing? What, exactly, are they using? We’ve hit up the estheticians of Philly’s most renowned spas to finally debunk the mysterious beauty habits of men and really break down the best in men’s skincare.

  • First things first, men are getting just as many expensive products and treatments as women. Esthetician Joanna Kula of Rescue Spa in Rittenhouse sees her male customers routinely buying the Biologique Recherche P50 exfoliating toner. The P50 toning lotion ranges from $27 for a travel size bottle (y’all!) and $94 for a full 8 oz., which goes to show that men will definitely cough up some dough when it comes to beauty.

#Repost: TRANSFORM YOUR SKIN WITH BIOLOGIQUE RECHERCHE

Miriam Morales of Scripts of flair.com shares her experience with P50…

I’m really excited to be sharing this #beautypost with you guys! You know I’m a product junkie and love testing out new stuff. I’ve slowed down just a bit when it comes to skin care products though because I was (still am) trying to clear up my skin and get it to a healthy place again. Guys, I found something so amazing I just had to tell you all about it! Let me back up a bit…

There one too many occurrences where Biologique Recherche, a French exfoliating toner, was mentioned as a holy grail. Really? I was curious (obviously) and spent an entire week, every day, for HOURS reading reviews. I love reading reviews because they do help get a sense of what to expect with a product. Between Amazon.com and Rescue Spa almost every single review was positive…like, astonishingly positive. Only about 2% were negative. However, they all basically said the same four things: 1. the smell is horrendous, 2. it stings/burns a bit when applied on the skin, 3. it’s pricey, 4. there might be a purging phase. I’m not going to lie, the purging part if what freaked me out the most. I could not deal with more breakouts. But I decided to give it a shot anyway.

Biologique RechercheI got the P50 without phenol and they didn’t lie! This stuff is expensive. A 1.7oz bottle is $27, with shipping it came to $37. Since I was trying it out I got the smallest bottle to see how I’d like it. Yes, it stings but after awhile you get used to it. Yes, it smells bad, but who cares? You get used to that too. On the first day I only used it at night to see how my skin would react and then use twice daily. Well, well, well, the morning after…man, y’all don’t even know! I noticed a huge difference!. I couldn’t believe that with just one use what it did to my skin. A miracle I tell ya.
Biologique Recherche reviewMy skin was noticeably a lot clearer. In under 2 weeks my blemishes and dark spots were clearing up. Those 1.7oz went quick! It was a must for me to continue using this toner so I ordered the next size up, 5.7 at $57 and with tax it came to $67. Told you it’s not cheap but it’s so worth every penny! The right side of my face was bad, like really, really, really, REALLY, bad. It is clear now and the dark spots are fading away. Even the large pores on my forehead that decided to take center stage are getting smaller and smaller. My makeup goes on more smoothly and just looks better period. And, I don’t feel like I need so much! Which is great because summer is right around the corner and I don’t like to wear too much makeup on my face in the blazing heat.

If it did all that in just under a month I can’t wait to see how my skin looks in 3 months. This product completely transformed my skin. I love it. Now that’s not to say that my tea tree oil and other organic natural stuff are dunzo, no, no, no. They’re still good for every now and then use like the days/mornings/evenings when I decide not to use my Biologique Recherche. Because I mean, the stuff is expensive and I’m trying to make it last!

So what do you think? Will you give it a try?

PURCHASE BIOLOGIQUE RECHERCHE AT RESCUE SPA

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From dry skin to chapped lips: Renowned Center City aesthetician, Danuta Mieloch, addresses your winter skin woes

Don’t fall (no pun intended) for the unseasonably warm weather this week. The crisp fall air is sure to return.

The brisk autumn and winter air can wreak havoc on skin, so I went straight to the expert for preemptive damage control. Awarded “Best Facial” in Philadelphia by Allure magazine, Danuta Mieloch, aesthetician and owner of Rescue Spa in Center City has been transforming the faces of women in Philadelphia since 2004.

Mieloch tackles the most common winter skin care concerns, such as:

Dry skin: “Winter, with its cold air and drying heat, can be tough on your skin,” says Mieloch. For dry skin, she recommends stepping up your routine to keep skin moist by:

●      Applying moisturizer right after the shower while skin is still dewy to seal in moisture.

●      Switching to a richer moisturizer.

Mieloch also advises to layer your skin care products. “Layering doesn’t just apply to your wardrobe, it also applies to your skin care,” reveals Mieloch. “Layer serums, under moisturizer, followed by sunscreen.”

Oily skin: For those with oily skin who think they can skip the moisturizer in colder weather, think again. “Oily skin still needs a lightweight moisturizer and sunscreen in the winter. Don’t forget to exfoliate, it is essential for oily skin,” reminds Mieloch.

Sensitive skin: “Choose a gentle fragrance-free cleanser and moisturizer. You might want to skip (or use less) moisturizers containing fruit acid and retinol in the winter,” warns Mieloch. “In the winter they tend to further irritate dry sensitive skin.”

Dull skin: To prevent dull, dry, rough skin, exfoliate gently and regularly. At Rescue, we suggest using P50 for both face and body. It instantly brightens the skin, removing dead skin cells, unclogs pores, and lets moisturizer better penetrate the skin.

Other tips Mieloch shares are:

●      For chapped lips, use Aquaphor or a beeswax-based lip balm, preferably with SPF.

●      Hands need extra care in the winter. Apply moisturizer followed by SPF.  Wear cotton gloves with a heavy moisturizer on overnight to really soothe and soften hands.

●      Use a humidifier at home.

●      Always wear an SPF all year long.

●      Drink plenty of water and bundle up!

To get a personalized skin care regimen from Mieloch or her trained staff, visit www.rescuespa.net .

Renee DeSantis at Philly.com

 

BeautyBanter.com Weekly Must-Have: Biologique Recherche P50

Weekly Must-Have: Biologique Recherche P50

October 9, 2014

If I were stranded on a desert island and could only bring one beauty product, Biologique Recherche P50 Balancing Exfoliator would be it. No question.

P50 is adored by celebrities and fashionistas like Jenna Lyons, Julia Restoin Roitfeld, the Olsen twins, and practically every top model, and for good reason. The multitasking magic potion (hey, it didn’t get the nickname “facial in a bottle” for nothing) exfoliates, hydrates, and balances the pH of your skin all with a single swipe of a cotton pad. It also preps your skin for additional product application by getting rid of excess gunk that accumulates on the surface so that your other products can really sink in and do their thing. It’s done a great job at shrinking my pores and clearing up some lingering acne. I like to think that P50 has made my visage brighter and tighter, and who doesn’t want/ need/ obsess over that?

After cleansing, douse a cotton pad with P50. Starting at the base of your neck, use a light patting motion to work your way up your face while avoiding the eye region. I pat a little extra around problem areas like my nose and chin. Make sure to let the product absorb fully before applying serums and moisturizers so that you can receive the utmost benefits from your beauty heavy hitters.

Made with a combination of Onion Extract, Lactic Acid, Salicylic Acid, Burdock Extract, and Plankton, the scent isn’t exactly pleasant (hey, it’s not perfume), but the result is worth the stench. While your boyfriend may initially balk at the smell, he’ll quickly change his tune. I’m betting he’ll be stealing your P50 within days. If not for the glowing complexion, he’ll be reaching for the P50 to eradicate stubborn ingrowns from shaving (yes, it works for that, too!).

Use this baby daily, morning and night. If you are a bit sensitive like me, go with the milder P50 V version. This stuff is seriously hard to find stateside, so I suggest purchasing from here (one of only a handful of online retailers, but this site seems the least stressful).

PRICE TAG: $59 for 5.1 oz

Casey Sharbaugh currently resides in New York City and works in the fashion industry. In her spare time, you can find Casey spinning, trying new beauty products, or browsing the city for the best ice cream cone. Find her on Twitter at @chs_psu

 

Mandy Moore on Biologique Recherche via Into The Gloss


“I use Biologique Recherche P50. It smells intense, but it’s supposed to tighten your pores. You can feel it tingle when you dab it on—you’re not supposed to wipe it on. I went to this facialist in the Valley for a few years and she exclusively used Biologique Recherche products. I loved going there because part of her routine was to use these pulsating sponges to help you better absorb the product and to tighten your skin—it makes you look like you’ve had an instant facelift. I stopped using Biologique Recherche for a while, but my skin felt like it was out of balance, so now I’m back on.

I’m at the age where I have to start thinking about the under-eye lines and stuff. I don’t necessarily care about aging—I think aging is beautiful—but I also want to try and maintain things for as long as possible.  When I want to be more dewy, I spray Biologique Recherche Fluide VIP O2 on my hand and then pat it on my face to look extra glowy. It’s apparently supposed to protect your skin from environmental damage.

When I want to do a fun mask, Biologique Recherche Masque VIP O2 is a super yummy, ultra hydrating treatment that’s especially good for under my eyes. I put it on for 10 minutes. None of their products really smell great, but I feel like that’s why they work? [Laughs]

Biologique Recherche Masque Vivant smells like yeast. It’s awful. What you’re supposed to do is mix a little bit of it with baking soda to make this weird foam, and then put the foam all over your face for 15 minutes. It makes you feel so clean; it’s like my pores have been excavated. Frankie told me about the baking soda part. The mask is super emollient and thick, so when you add the baking soda it foams up and becomes light and frothy. Whenever my husband (Ryan Adams) catches me with the mask on, he makes fun of me, like, ‘Oh, I didn’t know you were in [the band] KISS today.’ [Laughs]”

-Mandy Moore via Into The Gloss

RACKED Philly: Summer Skin Reset

Between sweat, sunscreen, and SEPTA exhaust, summers in Philly aren’t too easy on the pores, and your face could likely benefit from a little refresher right about now. Something a little more effective than, say, a Biore strip, but less frightening than anything involving local anesthetic.Classic Rescue Facial at Rescue Spa, $110
Combining dermatology with soothing spa practices, Rescue Spa is pretty serious about facials. The Classic Rescue Facial, for instance, begins with a skin assessment, and it even treats the neck, decolletage, and hands with skin type-specific potions and serums. This is the spa that stocks the Biologique Recherche P50 Lotion you keep hearing about. Medical Arts Building, 1601 Walnut Street, 3rd floor; Rittenhouse Square

 

 

Spring is on its way…

Spring is on its way. As the warm fresh air hits my face for the first time this week, I was finally able to take off a few layers of clothing. Thankfully I said “so long” to my hat and winter coat. This winter has been long, cold and very dry. We have our dry skin to show for it.

The next season means less clothes and more skin. It’s time to get out our fun sun dresses, summer tops, and swimsuits! Keeping up with a good home regimen on our face and hopefully getting into the spa a few times for a facial is important, but what about our backs? This is where a back facial can help.

Rescue’s Back Facial is one of my favorite services and it’s often overlooked. It is 45 minutes of a fully relaxing, while overall rejuvenating experience!! We will start off with a thorough analysis so we can determine exactly what products will be best for you. From there it is a combination of deep cleansing; exfoliation using the proper p50 product for your skin; balance and prep of the skin; followed by a beautiful massage with the renewing pack to help hydrate and brighten. Your Rescue Back Facial finishes with a mask best suited for your skin needs to help hydrate and balance your skin. From start to finish you will be completely taken care of, and you will leave feeling rejuvenated, and ready for the spring.

Esthetician, Suzanne Zelley