How The Estheticians Do It: Hyperpigmentation

Summertime is the time to protect your skin.

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Questions regarding hyperpigmentation come up in 7 out of 10 appointments and it’s safe to say that it is one of the main concerns in skin treatment rooms. In this post I would like to discuss the ways to prevent hyperpigmentation and share some of my favorite products to treat this common skin disorder.

Hyperpigmentation is caused by an overproduction of melanin (the pigment that gives our skin, hair and eyes its natural color) in the patches of the skin. It is a skin condition that affects every ethnic background and skin tone and is mostly associated with aging. Pregnancy or hormonal fluctuations, UV radiation and photo aging, chemical or UV burn, genetics and allergies are just some of the more typical factors.

Daily use of a broad spectrum sun protection is a sure way to prevent hyperpigmentation caused by exposure to the damaging sun rays. Exfoliation is essential to reduce the build of dead skin cells and to promote skin cell regeneration for brighter skin every day.

Professional treatments such as microdermabrasion, chemical peels and IPL are all effective.

Active Ingredients to look for in products are:

  • Alpha/Beta Hydroxy Acids
  • Arbutin
  • Kojic Acid
  • Azelaic Acid
  • Glabridin/Licorice Root Extract
  • Retinoids
  • Epidermal Growth Factor

Some of my personal favorite treatments to combat hyperpigmentation include:

CLEANSE

Biologique Recherche Lait VIP O2 is an “antipollution” cleanser that brightens and unifies the complexion, eliminates impurities and calms the epidermis.

TONE

Biologique Recherche P50 PIGM400 is the newest formulation of the beloved P50. It enhances epidermal renewal and helps regulate melanin synthesis while respecting and protecting the skin. Lightens the skin, reduces the size of pigmentation marks and prevents them from appearing. Inhibits melanin synthesis. Improves the strength and quality of the epidermis. Unifies and brightens the complexion. Balances pH on the skin’s surface.

TREAT-SERUM

Valmont Clarifying Infusion Brightening Serum is an ultra-concentrated treatment that decreases melanin production and fights hyperpigmentation. It increases skin brightness and complexion evenness to reveal perfectly even-toned skin.

Serum PIGM 400 is a brightening, spot-correcting serum that illuminates the complexion and fights free radicals. It is my personal favorite. Paired with Creme PIGM 400, this powerful duo fights pigmentation and reveals glowing complexion.

Clarifying Lotion and Intensive C Boost by Environ is another great combination for combating visible skin pigmentation. The Clarifying Lotion is a light, non-oily lotion that nourishes the skin with important water-soluble ingredients that inhibit the production of melanin. It maintains the skin’s natural acid mantle and can either be used on small, easily defined pigment blemishes, or as a whole face and neck solution for extensive uneven skin tone. The Intensive C-Boost contains a powerful form of vitamin C ideal for sun damage, pigmentation, fine lines and capillaries as well as for the maintenance of a healthy skin.

TREAT MASK

Valmont Clarifying Pack is a clarifying cream-mask that is rich in illuminating ingredients. Provides visible brightening effect, mattifies and tightens the pores. Just after one treatment the skin is flexible, soft, and gleams with a new radiance. Use it once a week in addition to your current masque treatment.

Environ Revival Masque is a powerful combination of Lactic, Mandelic and Asiatic acids formulated to target the effects of photo-damaged skin and the appearance of uneven skin texture.

The Beautigenix Brightening Mask is a Korean sheet mask that reduces the appearance of sun and age spots, removes signs of fatigue, gives skin a radiant and brighter look, evens skin tone and texture – also improves mild acne. All and all, a perfect on the go solution for someone who has uneven skin tone, dark spots or sun damaged skin.

MBR Beta-Enzyme is a gel-masque based on mild hydroxy acids in combination with a papain enzyme complex for smooth, clear and more radiant skin.

TREAT-INTENSIVE CURE

Cellcosmet Ultra Brightening Elasto-Collagen XT is a real anti-pigmentation face-lift that resculpts the skin injecting it with hydration. Packed full of scientifically selected ingredients, the Ultra Brightening Elasto-Collagen XT serum with its concentration of 15% active stabilized bio-integral cells and expert brightening complex, delivers a complete firming and brightening solution. Whether used as an occasional 12-day treatment or throughout the year, Cellcosmet Ultra Brightening Elasto-Collagen XT revitalizes, progressively lightens natural skin tone, redefines and intensely hydrates the face, neck and décolleté area. The skin’s firmness and ability to bounce back are visibly improved, pigmentary spots visibly attenuated while the facial contours are resculpted and the oval of the face redefined.

  • Post Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH) is one of the more difficult types of pigmentation to get rid off. These red or brown regions of pigment are usually associated with acne, chemical burns, eczema or dermatitis. One of my favorite products to tackle it is Sebuspot by Environ – a mild gel for use on inflamed areas of the skin. It helps reduce congestion and residual redness while at the same time drying up skin blemishes.

MOISTURIZE

Biologique Recherche Creme PIGM 400 is a concentrate of brightening, anti-age spot and protective ingredients.  Its multipolar formulation helps correct existing pigmentation imperfections and prevents new age spots from forming. The complexion becomes increasingly luminous and the skin appears more even. Best when paired with Serum PIGM 400.

Institute Esthederm Clarity System Whitening Brightening Repair Day Cream regenerates and restructures the skin, protects, prevents photo-aging, cell damage and the risk of redness and inflammation.

MBR Luminous Pearl Extreme works on delivering both multi-active anti-aging effects as well as a perfectly balanced and illuminated complexion.

PROTECT

Biologique Recherche Protection UV helps protect the epidermis from the harmful effects of UVA, UVB, and infrared rays. The formula rich in anti-aging, soothing, anti-spot and moisturizing active ingredients helps prevent skin aging and dehydration.
MBR High Protection Face Cream SPF30 protects the skin from sunburn, aging, wrinkles and pigmentation spots which can be caused by excessive exposure to the sun. It smoothes and mattifies skin appearance for an even and healthy tan.
Institute Esthederm Photo Regulator helps reduce pigmentation spots by reducing the contrast between the hyper-pigmented areas and tanned skin. This helps to ensure a consistent and harmonious tan safely.

Summer time is the prime time to protect your skin and prevent stubborn hyperpigmentation caused by excessive sun exposure. Wear a hat, polarized sunglasses and be mindful when out and about. You only have one skin, take care of it now and enjoy the compliments later!

Diana Yerkes

What Is Multi-Masking?

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Multi-Masking = Customized Home Facial.

With increasing stress and pollution levels, most people no longer fit into just one basic skin type, making combination skin types more common and the sophistication of treatments more complex. Skin changes with the seasons and, with it, you need to adapt your regimen; simply using one mask to fix it all is not enough. 

Here are some solutions:

Biologique Recherché products have been my go-to for years now and having some of the BR masks in your at-home arsenal will prepare you to tackle whatever your skin has in store for you this season! 

Masque Vivant is beautiful all around. I wrote a separate article on it that you can read here. I like using it in the t-zone for the multi-masking purpose, and it works on all skin types! It contains high concentrations of yeast, cucumber, and witch hazel extracts that give it purifying and balancing properties. 

Masque VIP O2 is magical! Having an oxygenating effect, it is hydrating, radiance revealing and amazing for reducing dullness and fatigue in drier, stressed out skin. I like using it under and around the eyes. The formula is rich in moisturizing botanical ingredients and contains an Oxygenating Complex which stimulates epidermal regeneration and revitalizes the skin. Quick tip: use a pea size of Masque Vernix; apply it on the lips for immediate dryness reduction.

Masque Biomagic is also great for an instant lift! It can be used all over before a night out for its purifying and tightening properties and can also be applied on the chin and forehead during a multi-masking session. It is an energizing face treatment formulated with a subtle combination of mineral and terrestrial ingredients. It leaves the skin glowing, soft and purified.

For the Valmont admirer, Renewing Pack is nothing less than excellent! I save it for the night before special events or as a Sunday quick, pick-me-up treat. It’s rebalancing formula gives the skin an instant beauty boost! A Renewing Pack could be used in combination with the Purifying Pack and Clarifying Pack for the multi-masking purposes. Application varies based on your specific skin needs. 

 Having at least three of these masks in your medicine cabinet can give you a customized facial treatment at home any time you crave it!

Remember, everyone’s skin is unique! Use masks in the areas needed with a benefit in mind or use all over and your skin will thank you! I hope the multi-masking will become as integrated part of skincare maintenance for you as it did for me.

Your esthetician and masking connoisseur at heart,

Diana Yerkes