Clients love to ask questions! And fortunately I usually have the answers. The sad part is, the
answer is almost always the same, retinols. I know, it may sound like a cop-out but it’s true.
Do you wish you could fix any of these skin conditions??
- sun damage
- rough texture
- fine lines
- dull complexion
If you answered yes, then retinols can grant you your wish! Well, almost. Seriously.
While retinols are not a cure, they are definitely a requirement for skin correction.
Now that brings me to my next point. Don’t be afraid. Run, don’t walk. Many people are hesitant to use retinols because they immediately think that their skin will become super sensitive to the sun, peel, and fall off. Well, part of that is true. While using retinols, (and always!!) SPF of 30 (or greater) should be used. And why not? The sun, quite possibly, is the reason you’re in this situation anyway. So yes, direct sun should be avoided, and yes, your skin will exfoliate faster than it normally does.
Fall is the perfect time to refresh and rejuvenate the skin with retinols because of
how our outdoor habits change and providing one less environmental factor to overcome.
And yes, we want the skin to exfoliate. This is nothing to fear. Cell regeneration
through the use of retinols is easy when using Environ, an industry leader in corrective skin care.
Speak with an esthetician during your next visit to Rescue Rittenhouse Spa to determine a plan of action to give you the skin YOU’VE always wanted.
Feel young, look younger!
I love brides. I’m that crazy woman you see at weddings who always sits on the end seat of the church pew craning her neck to see every detail of the wedding gown, Kleenex in hand ready to bawl her eyes out. I believe that all brides should be as perfect as possible for that special day because the pictures are for posterity. And it doesn’t matter if you’re wearing Monique or Vera or your Mom’s gown because if your skin is not glowing and beautiful you probably won’t feel as pretty as you should.
With regard to bridal skin the game has changed a bit. The Bridal Book of Beauty
Rules (BBBR) has in many ways become obsolete. Similar to the IT industry, skin
care advances are moving at the speed of light. This is great news for brides because it
makes the road to beautyliciousness easier to navigate with the assistance of the right
The BBBR states that you should never have a facial within 2 weeks of your wedding
date because your face might explode in a mass of zits making you totally unrecognizable
to family and groom. That rule is so not true. But I do understand where it came from.
For 8 years I served as a bridal makeup artist for two prestigious spas on the Main Line.
Often the bride-to-be would book a spa package which included a facial followed by the
makeup trial or actual wedding day makeup application. It would drive me crazy having
to apply foundation over beaten up, irritated skin which resulted after an aggressive
facial. I would wonder who in their right mind actually performs deep extractions or uses
extreme products on a bride the day of her wedding or the week before.
My philosophy is when the wedding date is this close the focus of the esthetician should
be only to enhance the bride’s skin making it pretty and radiant in preparation for that
walk down the aisle.
My brides will come in the week of their wedding to get their facials because of this philosophy. At Rescue Rittenhouse we have the most up-to-date, state of the art equipment as well as world class products to insure ultimate bridal beautyliciousness. I am totally in love with Cellcosmet Gel Activateur which gently dissolves dead layers leaving your skin crazy beautiful and glowing. This product also works well on skin with rosacea since it doesn’t irritate. Cellcosmet is the skin care line placed in the swag bags of Oscar nominees. Need I say more?
And if you are having an evening wedding the Golden Fluide serum by Carita is the must have product splurge for all skin tones. It gives the skin a golden lit from within finish that is unreal. It would also be fabulous for those candle-lit honeymoon evenings.
I have to say, if you have even a tentative wedding date you should be scheduling for a
bridal skin consultation. Six months (or more) ahead is ideal because if you have issues
or problems with your skin you’ll want to allow sufficient time to get it photo ready
and if your skin is perfect I can recommend products to make you a goddess. But my
last minute brides have been known to pop up for a facial the morning of their wedding.
That’s Ok too. After all, they’re at Rescue Rittenhouse Spa.
No seriously Ladies, that is the big question! So often clients come into my room claiming they’re skin is dry and sensitive and when I ask them about their skin care regimen, most are not exfoliating properly. What happens is dead skin creates a build up which inhibits the skin from functioning properly. This will eventually create problems like dehydration and congestion which leaves the epidermis (the outermost layer) feeling rough, “dry” or broken out and will ultimately lead you to finding yourself in my room completely frustrated and losing hope. This is where it gets gross… When I look at a client’s skin under that magic lamp of mine, what I usually see is a combination of old, dead skin cells glued together with topical garbage like sunblock, make up, sunless tanners, junky moisturizes and of course, environmental dirt. It’s not pretty. This garbage, if neglected, will eventually lead to sallow, lethargic skin that lacks of tone, luster, appropriate hydration levels, or even worse, can lead to adult onset acne.
So, the bottom line is, if you aren’t 21 anymore…chances are your skin isn’t shedding like it used to. Studies show younger skin renews itself every 15-30 days, but as we age (ahem.. all you 30 somethings and up) that renewing process more than doubles! That’s right, this means you could be wearing last seasons skin, eww gross! We don’t wear last seasons fashions, so why wear last seasons skin? Got it, Good.
So how does one exfoliate, you ask?
There are a few mediums that can be used to exfoliate. First, is the good old fashion Scrub, but it’s not for everyone. A scrub includes any granular substance or gommage, this type of exfoliant is a what I like to call manual exfoliation. It’s kind of like sanding down an old antique before you refinish it. It’s a good prepping step that can polish and smooth the epidermis, but do keep in mind it doesn’t penetrate the dermal layer (lower and deeper). The problem with scrubs besides the lack of penetration, is that if used too frequently or if it’s too harsh, it can lead to irritated red skin, where the appearance of broken capillaries can get worse over time or for those of you struggling with acne, it can over stimulate sebaceous glands thus making break outs worse! This is bad, very bad. If you’re prone to redness, broken capillaries, thinner skin, acne or are under 17, I would skip scrubbing all together. One of my favorite scrubs is Valmont’s “Exfoliant” which uses crystallized algae to gently exfoliate the epidermis, it’s even great for you Rosacea folks! Please see your local Esthetician to help you figure out your skin type.
Then there are Alpha beta hydroxy acids… If I could play music here and move clouds with beams of light, I would. Alpha beta hydroxy acids are amazing and great for all skin types; however, rules do apply.
The most common and simple alpha hydroxy acids are glycolic, lactic, citric and malic acid. These awesome acids are derived from food, like sugar, milk, citrus fruits and apples, YUM! The will skin like this, trust me. Alpha hydroxy acids improve skin because they have little, tiny, cute molecules small enough to penetrate the outermost layer and reach the dermal layer (lower and deeper layer). So essentially, AHA’s cause dead skin cells to become unglued, slough off, dissolve, pack their bags and say Sayonora! This makes room for the regrowth of new skin, and this is what gives you back your youthful glow. Wrinkles will be less defined, evil sun spots will fade, and the overall texture and color of your skin will slowly transform. It’s truly amazing!
Now, Beta hydroxy acid, last but definitely not least.
The ultimate Beta hydroxy acid is salicylic acid. This acid is similar to the alpha in that it does all those magnificent things I listed above, but while Alpha hydroxy acids are water soluble, Salicylic acid is lipid (oil) soluble. So what in the world does that mean? Salicylic acid is actually able to penetrate a single pore containing sebum (oil) and exfoliate or loosen up that build up and help that pore purge, YES! This means see ya later blackheads, and peace out white heads!
So the moral of the story is to say YES to exfoliation and to look for products containing alpha beta hydroxy acids. Keep in mind, especially you sensitive types, that these acids are active, stimulating and vasodilate (expand) the capillaries. This means feeling a heated rush or tingle is very normal, as is a flushing of the skin, do not be alarmed, this is temporary. This means blood flow is being increased and circulation is being improved in the skin, all of which is good. It’s kind of like yoga for the face. Remember, no pain, no gain, so stop whining and get on board!
Now, using just beta or just alpha or too much of one without the other can cause various problems like redness, itchiness and/or peeling. So, finding a product that has mastered achieving that delicate balance of alpha beta acids can be a difficult and painful process. But look no further than Lotion P50 by Biologique Recherche, it is a remarkable product, it’s a toner and exfoliant in one, and a best seller here at Rescue Rittenhouse Spa. This product, completes me!
See one of our trained Estheticians to get started on your new exfoliation routine right away!
– Tirzah Fowler
- You need tweezers, scissors, a brush that looks like a mascara wand and a mirror.
- Comb your brows in an up and out direction.
- Make a decision of how you want your eyebrows to look. Try not to modify too much because the natural shape is already created to go with your features. (Optional: take a white eye kohl and color under and above the eyebrow to mark the part you want to tweeze. Do it on both eyebrows before you start tweezing. This way you will be able to achieve better symmetry)
- After you are done tweezing, take the brush and comb your brows up again. Now carefully trim the hair that is longer and goes above the line of the brow.
- Now, brush your brows down. Don’t trim as much as above the eyebrow.
The truth about trimming:
Trimming your eyebrows will make them look groomed and thinner. Keeping this in mind, be sure not to tweeze your eyebrows as thin as you normally would.
- The best eyebrow shape is a bit of a fuller brow.
- Starting thicker and slowly thinning out toward the edges.
- When it comes to an arch, don’t over do it. Some people have straight eyebrows and trying to get an arch would make their brows too thin and it wouldn’t fit their features. Lift the arch just enough so you don’t have too much skin between your eye and brow. The higher you go, your eyelids might start looking droopy.
Keep it as natural as possible!
- Drink plenty of water – at least two liters, 12oz a day! Thoroughly hydrated skin contains fewer toxins and maintains its elasticity better.
- Use your sun sense – during the day, always wear UVA-UVB sunscreen and clothing with high necklines. Save cleavage for evenings.
- Stretch with strength (think Pilates or Yoga) three or four times a week; this will improve the body silhouette.
- Cut caffeine (coffee, black tea and soda). It can lead to uneven skin tone, cystic acne and broken capillaries.
- Avoid yo-yo dieting, which worsens cellulite and stretch marks. To lose weight, devise a plan under a doctor’s supervision.
- Sleep on your back (ideally with a pillow under knees to reduce back strain). Stomach and side sleeping, presses lines into the face, neck and chest.
- Once a week before bed, coat hands and feet with an ultra-heavy moisturizer and then cover with cotton gloves and socks.
- “- Many women go from bar of soap to facelifts – but there is much in between!” Make a habit of gently exfoliating and hydrating your entire body every day.
- “- Beautiful skin is a matter of choice not chance!” Choose the appropriate home care regimen for your skin type. Stay on schedule with your monthly customized facial at RESCUE.
- Spend at least a few minutes in front of the mirror every day complimenting yourself! As with everything, the more comfortable you feel, the better you will look.
The key to exfoliation is the product and how you use it. We highly recommend that you use P50 by Biologique Reserche. P50 acts as a toner and exfoliant to the skin. It removes dead cells and impurities that build up on a daily basis, improves strength and hydrates the epidermis, as well as balancing the surface pH of the skin.
Step 1: After cleansing, place several drops of P50 on a cotton pad.
Step 2: starting at the decollete and moving upward to the neck and face, apply using a gentle patting motion without rubbing and avoiding the eye area. Allow the product to dry.
Step 3: if you have oily or thick skin, you can repeat this step once again.
First, you must embrace a cleansing ritual.
Step 1: You need to select an appropriate cleanser according to your skin type or condition. Rescue recommends a cleansing milk such as Lait U by Biologique Recherche. A cleansing milk will cleanse without dehydrating the skin and will easily remove everyday makeup and dirt gently but effectively.
Step 3: Gently remove cleanser with a warm wet washcloth with an upward sweeping motion.
Step 4: repeat above steps to complete a second cleansing.