“The allure of Biologique Recherche, a mysterious skincare brand beloved by so many influential women (especially in New York) was almost lost on me, as there’s not a ton of explanation on the internet and it’s infamously difficult to procure. I would forget about it for months until another low-key, glowy-skinned individual touted it as her secret weapon. What even is this? I’ve thought to myself many, many times. But here’s the thing, one application will demonstrate exactly how incredible this toner is for your skin. It’s a blend of lactic acid, salicylic acid, and citric acid and keeps breakouts at bay, pores smooth, and your skin’s texture super even.” — Hallie Gould x Byrdie
Danuta Mieloch invited us into her home to share her Evening Routine. Trust us, you do not want to miss this. She has so many tricks up her sleeves! Double P50? Triple Masking? Microcurrents? It’s all in here…
It’s important to take special care of your skin in the winter. Here are a few things you can do to keep skin moist and healthy all season long…
- Use a humidifier when the air is dry.
- Put moisturizer and oil on your body immediately after bathing.
Create a ritual of applying oils like Body Oxygenant followed by MSRH Corps.
- Wear natural fibers, such as cotton and silk, because they allow your skin to breathe.
- Cover up when the air is dry, to hold moisture in.
- Focus on proper nutrition and drinking plenty of water.
- Avoid things that trigger allergic reactions. Use detergent free of dyes and perfumes.
- Mature and drier skin types should apply and reapply moisturizer to lock in moisture.
- Let’s not forget hands (telltale sign of age). Apply hand cream and cuticle oil often.
- Don’t forget to wear gloves while doing home chores and while outdoors.
- Practice a good skincare regimen:
- Dry skin can happen at any age, but it’s most likely a concern if you’re 50 or older. This is because the glands that make oil for your skin get smaller as you age and produce less. Many popular soaps and cleansers “clean” your skin by removing oil. This strips the skin, which often causes dryness or breakouts to worsen. At Rescue we always recommend a gentle milky cleanser like Lait VIP o2. Use with a washcloth to buff away dry flaky skin and reveal the fresh skin that lies beneath. Washcloths are super gentle on the skin and most importantly, they don’t cost much. 🙂
Once your skin is properly cleansed it is extremely important to balance the pH of your skin. Our favorite product for this step is Lotion P50 1970.During the winter I personally use P50 1970 at night and P50W in the daytime (this gentler formula is fantastic for winter). *A reminder to the health conscious: all Biologique Recherche products are paraben-free and safe to use.
After you’ve applied P50 follow with a hylarounic acid based serum to keep skin plump, hydrated and, yes, looking younger! Babies are born with a high level of hyaluronic acid, which keeps their skin plump and smooth. Unfortunately, the amount of hyaluronic acid in skin diminishes with age, most significantly after age 40. While it may not be possible to maintain perfectly dewy baby-skin, these serums help to restore the skin’s hyaluronic acid content. Applied topically hyaluronic acid increases hydration, improves elasticity, and reverses free radical damage. All skin types, even oily, will benefit from using hyaluronic acid serum. *For those who get injectables it prolongs the plumping effect.
Layer! Winter skincare is like your winter wardrobe, it’s all about layers! I always layer my serums, starting with the lightest texture and finishing with the thickest. Here is my current mix of serums and creams for daytime: Amniotique, Le Grand Serum, Yall o2, Creme Dermo RL, and Fluide VIP O2.
Your evening routine is another story. Winter is time to bust out the big game changers like MBR’s liquid surgery serum, followed by MBR Extraordinary Cream. Mind you I’m over 50 and the names alone provide a feel-good-factor (I’ll take liquid surgery anytime, no pain or risk involved).
For younger gals I suggest Environ’s Cquence 3 serum. It’s packed with peptides, vitamins, and retinol to address antiaging in one simple step.
I also highly recommend keeping the skin challenged by alternating your regimen every other night. Currently I’m alternating MBR Extraordinary cream with BR Le Grand Creme (*available in January).
For a dry skin solution I love Vintners Daughter Active Botanical Serum – a clean beauty favorite of celebrities. It has a loyal following for good reason. This cult product is a powerful sustainably crafted oil that delivers skin all the essentials, moisture, vitamins, minerals, antioxidants.
Valmont Regenera II is another winter staple. It’s a rich cream-balm that solves dry skin, lips, cuticles, patches, etc. Love… love… love!
Rescue Spa Facials are always geared to problem solve. Whether it’s dry skin, brown spots, redness, irritation, or inflamed acne, Rescue Facials are always customized to focus on what your skin needs. With the right combination of products and high-tech tools, our estheticians can really create change in the skin over time to help you achieve your greatest complexion.
- Last but not least. Cold weather is the best time to develop healthy rituals and ceremonies. Taking care of my skin is a daily practice.
Create your own magic, have fun in your mini beauty apothecary ….
Light a candle….
Take a bath…
Get cozy in slippers and wrap up in cashmere …..
Practice self love, cultivate wellbeing, sing, dance and feel like a goddess ….
Happy Winter :)))
Rescue Spa Founder,
“I’m standing in the middle of a room struggling with the snaps on a terrycloth cover-up. It’s a Saturday morning and I’m at Rescue Spa in New York City, its brand new, dazzling (and huge) location on 19th Street. Danuta Mieloch, the spa’s founder and owner, is about to give me a facial in what is to be my very first encounter with Biologique Recherche. I’m nervous, I’m excited, and then—once I’m snapped in—comfortably cozied up beneath warm sheets as Danuta gets to work on my face. Just over an hour of consulting, cleansing, steaming, toning, balancing, massaging, and micro-current-ing later, I emerge as if in slow motion from the immense facility doors and down Park Avenue. I can feel my face glowing. Even if it stinks of Biologique Lait Crème (reminiscent of an NYC sewer) it was worth it; my skin hasn’t looked or felt this good in ages.
I’m not surprised, though. The recommendations for Biologique Recherche can’t come through the Into The Gloss comment section fast enough. (In fact, whenever we link to the products, it’s usually to Rescue Spa’s ecommerce site—very few places carry it online.) In the days following my appointment, every time I caught a glimpse of myself passing a mirror, I had to do a double take, thinking Wow, the lighting is really good in here before realizing that it was actually just my skin. I can’t speak to the rest of the spa’s offerings yet—it flaunts a nail salon (whose fireplace literally used to belong to Jackie O), a beverage bar, a hair salon, and endless massage rooms—but I probably will sooner than later. I already can’t wait to go back.” —Anna Stevenett
“I actually don’t love facials. Something about them makes me anxious. I like to be in control–of my time, of my products, of my extractions. But I would wholly give myself over to Danuta anytime I’m in need of a little skin rejuvenation from here on out. The hour-plus I spent with her during my Bio-Lift facial bent the linear notion of time and I felt like I was there being pampered for days on end. I could give you a number of reasons why this facial goes down in my book as unparalleled, but I’ll pick the most important one: extractions that don’t leave any redness. Seriously. They didn’t even hurt! That’s worth a lot in my book.
But really folks, talk to any 10 facialists in New York and emerge with at least 15 different opinions about what you should do for your skin. It’s a hard world out there for a beauty editor just looking for truth. But Danuta didn’t try and impart any new tenets on my skin—in fact, she said it looked pretty good! (Never underestimate the value of positivity on your ‘glow’.) She used a handful of things I don’t normally mess with on a daily basis—microdermabrasion and P50—but not in a scorched-earth attempt to rid me of having skin in the first place. Too much of that and you’ll end up with a complexion that doesn’t quite know what to do with itself. None of that at Rescue Spa. I glowed when I left; I glowed even harder three days later. And did I mention the extractions didn’t leave me with any redness? Because really—that’s golden.” —Emily Ferber
“I just started the new Biologique Recherche P50 PIGM 400 which specifically treats pigmentation in addition to exfoliation and fighting wrinkles. A few drops on a cotton pad to dab all over face, neck and chest each night (never rub as it may irritate sensitive areas) is all you need (you can work up to twice a day as I have). I promise you will fall in love at the first burn.”
–Reviewed by Cathy N.
Biologique Recherche Lotion P50 PIGM 400 helps reduce the appearance of existing hyperpigmentation marks, and helps prevent new ones from forming.
The main difference in the formula is that P50 PIGM 400 contains a higher concentration of niacinamide, my favorite ingredient for evening out skin tone (it really works!). There’s lactic acid in here, of course, along with the new addition of mandelic acid, and a variety of botanical extracts that specifically help with brightening and regulating melanin synthesis.
Plus, you get the same mild exfoliation, sebum regulation, anti-dullness and smoothing benefits that we know and love from P50. If you’re new to this type of product, start by applying it on a damp cotton pad for the first week. After your skin gets accustomed to it, you can use it on a dry pad, twice a day after cleansing.
Water (Aqua), Glycerin, Niacinamide, Sodium Gluconate, Lactic Acid, Sodium Lactate, Lactobacillus/Wasabia Japonica Root Ferment Extract, Magnesium Chloride, Mandelic Acid, Phytic Acid, Citric Acid, Gluconolactone, Magnesium Sulfate, Propylene Glycol, Palmaria Palmata Extract, Levulinic Acid, Salicylic Acid, Sodium Salicylate, Spiraea Ulmaria Extract, Vinegar (Acetum), Sodium Levulinate, Phenoxyethanol, Alcohol Denat., Microcitrus Australasica Fruit Extract, Prunus Persica (Peach) Leaf Extract, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Ascorbic Acid, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract, Rubus Idaeus (Raspberry) Fruit Extract.
“So you finally decided to buy Biologique Recherche Lotion P50. The tipping point was, perhaps, yet another friend’s rave review, or a Facebook ad from Rescue Spa, or maybe reading about it on Into The Gloss. Regardless, you’ve drank the lactic acid Koolaid, and we salute you for your astute and well-guided consumerism. But now you’re confronted with a brand-new conundrum: There is a small universe of P50 types. Which one is the right one for you?
We’ve talked about P50 for ages, but we’ve never really dove into what makes it so good, until now. For the uninitiated, Lotion P50 isn’t a lotion at all—it’s a French waterweight exfoliating toner that also hydrates and balances your skin’s pH, all in one fell swoop. It also smells like formaldehyde and apple cider vinegar, a scent Emily Weiss lovingly described as “trash face.” But it’s got a cult following. And if you’re in that cult, you know that one of the only places you can get it online is the website for Philadelphia’s Rescue Spa. “It boosts your skin’s very slow, very inefficient natural exfoliation process by immediately removing bad stuff from your skin,” says Danuta Mieloch, owner of Rescue Spa and person more or less to thank for its popularity. (Well, her and Aida Bicaj.) She recommends different versions of P50 for different skin types, and was happy to break them down for us:
For masochists: Lotion P50/P50 1970
P50 1970 is the toughest, roughest, OG version. Stinging and redness is par for the course—but actually, it’s good for any skin type. It’s got all the good stuff you know and love about P50, including a hearty blend of AHAs and BHAs to give you that glow. But what makes P50 particularly special is the mix of sorrell, myrrh extract, myrtle, and onion. (That’s where the smell comes from.) The regular P50 (scratch the 1970) excludes phenol, which is also found in mouthwash. It’s been banned in Europe, but it’s all part of the product that Danuta describes as the “purist’s choice.”
For dry skin: Lotion P50V/P50V 1970
P50V was created for those with skin not too sensitive, not too strong, and perhaps on the normal to dry side. It still does the job, but with the addition of plankton and brewer’s yeast, it’s slightly more conditioning than regular P50.
For super sensitive skin: Lotion P50W/P50W 1970
Or: For when you want effective exfoliation, but just looking at the word “glycolic” flares your skin up. P50W is the best bet—the formula balances lactic and salicylic acid with glycerin and articum lappa root to make it effacaious and gentle. How many products can do both?
For hyperpigmentation: Lotion P50 PIGM 400
The newest member of the P50 line, which contains no phenol at all, was made specifically for people dealing with hyperpigmentation. This version helps control the pigmentation process, stimulating exfoliation and helps brighten dull skin with wasabi extract, palmaria palmata extract, and whatever “fruits titrated in flavonoids” are. Dr. Phillippe Allouche (he helped develop the line) expressed the risk of our skin becoming dull due to external stressors—sun, stress, city air, etc. Absolutely worth checking out if skin tone is your #1 concern, but not as strong as regular P50. But then again, few things are.”
Originally published on Into The Gloss
Photographed by Tom Newton.
Like a Facial in a Bottle!
Lotion P50 PIGM 400 is an exfoliating and brightening lotion that is ideal for dull complexions with hyperpigmentation and dark spots.
“A cult favorite, P50 is a magic potion that does it all. Exfoliates, Hydrates, and Balances the pH of the skin, it’s a prep step before any skincare.” – Danuta Mieloch
It enhances epidermal renewal and helps regulate melanin synthesis while respecting and protecting the skin. This is a complete solution that helps to recover a luminous and radiant skin with an even and lightened complexion. Removes dead cells and impurities on a daily basis. Enhances epidermal renewal. Lightens the skin, reduces the size of pigmentation marks and prevents them from appearing. Inhibits melanin synthesis. Improves the strength and quality of the epidermis. Unifies and brightens the complexion. Balances pH on the skin’s surface. Improves the efficacity of the other Biologique Recherche products used after it.
What is the connection between PH and good skin?
Epidermal PH is usually acid reflecting the good status of the natural moisturizing factor, and the acid mantle of the skin (anti-microbial shield and chemical protection screen). However, the epidermis PH may vary considerably during the day, suffering from different artifacts. Epidermal surface PH is difficult to monitor and not always the best parameter for assessing the health of epidermis.
What makes the skin tingle when using P50?
When the epidermis is unbalanced, patients feel the acidity of the solution, causing the skin-tingling sensation. Once you reach a balance, this sensation will disappear.
What is the meaning of the name P50?
The P can be used for potion or peeling (the first name of the product was Lotion P1970, then P50, P50V, and P50W were developed).
- PARABEN FREE
- Size: (Travel) 1.07 oz / 5.1 oz. / 8.5 oz.
- Featured in NY Times and Huffington Post
- We recommend P50 while pregnant or breastfeeding. Please consult your doctor if you wish to continue using P50 1970 while pregnant or breastfeeding.