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How to Care for Your Skin — While You Sleep NY Times (T Magazine)

Cleanse and Cleanse Again
As a first step, skin-care experts agree that cleansing and toning should never be skipped (or rushed) at night. Danuta Mieloch, the facialist and founder of Rescue Spa, swears by a double-cleanse with Biologique Recherche USA’s Lait U using a muslin cloth to remove any last traces of makeup.
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For toner, both Mieloch and Czech use Biologique Recherche P50, which “exfoliates, hydrates and balances the pH of the skin,” Mieloch says.
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Personalize Your Serum
Next, according to all of the facialists we polled: an overnight serum. These concentrated liquids contain the highest doses of nutrients, and facialists often combine them to create customized, targeted tinctures.
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Moisturize Generously
Lastly, moisturize — and moisturize some more — since the body’s natural hydration levels dip at night. Finish with a rich cream; Mieloch is partial to MBR Skincare Cream Extraordinary ($369) , spiked with ultra-hydrating lanolin and light-reflective gold particles to subtly conceal any imperfections.

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Danuta’s Winter Essentials

It’s important to take special care of your skin in the winter. Here are a few things you can do to keep skin moist and healthy all season long… 

  • Use a humidifier when the air is dry.
  • Put moisturizer and oil on your body immediately after bathing.
    Create a ritual of applying oils like Body Oxygenant followed by MSRH Corps.
  • Wear natural fibers, such as cotton and silk, because they allow your skin to breathe.
  • Cover up when the air is dry, to hold moisture in.
  • Focus on proper nutrition and drinking plenty of water.
  • Avoid things that trigger allergic reactions. Use detergent free of dyes and perfumes.
  • Mature and drier skin types should apply and reapply moisturizer to lock in moisture.
  • Let’s not forget hands (telltale sign of age). Apply hand cream and cuticle oil often.
  • Don’t forget to wear gloves while doing home chores and while outdoors.
  • Practice a good skincare regimen:
  1. Dry skin can happen at any age, but it’s most likely a concern if you’re 50 or older. This is because the glands that make oil for your skin get smaller as you age and produce less.  Many popular soaps and cleansers “clean” your skin by removing oil. This strips the skin, which often causes dryness or breakouts to worsen. At Rescue we always recommend a gentle milky cleanser like Lait VIP o2. Use with a washcloth to buff away dry flaky skin and reveal the fresh skin that lies beneath. Washcloths are super gentle on the skin and most importantly, they don’t cost much. 🙂

  2. Once your skin is properly cleansed it is extremely important to balance the pH of your skin. Our favorite product for this step is Lotion P50 1970.During the winter I personally use P50 1970 at night and P50W in the daytime (this gentler formula is fantastic for winter). *A reminder to the health conscious: all Biologique Recherche products are paraben-free and safe to use.

  3. After you’ve applied P50 follow with a hylarounic acid based serum to keep skin plump, hydrated and, yes, looking younger! Babies are born with a high level of hyaluronic acid, which keeps their skin plump and smooth. Unfortunately, the amount of hyaluronic acid in skin diminishes with age, most significantly after age 40. While it may not be possible to maintain perfectly dewy baby-skin, these serums help to restore the skin’s hyaluronic acid content. Applied topically hyaluronic acid increases hydration, improves elasticity, and reverses free radical damage. All skin types, even oily, will benefit from using hyaluronic acid serum. *For those who get injectables it prolongs the plumping effect.

    Layer! Winter skincare is like your winter wardrobe, it’s all about layers! I always layer my serums, starting with the lightest texture and finishing with the thickest. Here is my current mix of serums and creams for daytime: Amniotique,  Le Grand Serum, Yall o2, Creme Dermo RL, and Fluide VIP O2.

  4. Your evening routine is another story. Winter is time to bust out the big game changers like MBR’s liquid surgery serum, followed by MBR Extraordinary Cream. Mind you I’m over 50 and the names alone provide a feel-good-factor (I’ll take liquid surgery anytime, no pain or risk involved).

    For younger gals I suggest Environ’s Cquence 3 serum. It’s packed with peptides, vitamins, and retinol to address antiaging in one simple step.

    I also highly recommend keeping the skin challenged by alternating your regimen every other night. Currently I’m alternating MBR Extraordinary cream with BR Le Grand Creme (*available in January).

    For a dry skin solution I love Vintners Daughter Active Botanical Serum – a clean beauty favorite of celebrities. It has a loyal following for good reason. This cult product is a powerful sustainably crafted oil that delivers skin all the essentials, moisture, vitamins, minerals, antioxidants.

    Valmont Regenera II is another winter staple. It’s a rich cream-balm that solves dry skin, lips, cuticles, patches, etc. Love… love… love!

  5. Rescue Spa Facials are always geared to problem solve. Whether it’s dry skin, brown spots, redness, irritation, or inflamed acne, Rescue Facials are always customized to focus on what your skin needs. With the right combination of products and high-tech tools, our estheticians can really create change in the skin over time to help you achieve your greatest complexion.

  6. Last but not least. Cold weather is the best time to develop healthy rituals and ceremonies. Taking care of my skin is a daily practice.
    Create your own magic, have fun in your mini beauty apothecary ….
    Light a candle….
    Mask often….
    Take a bath…
    Breathe….
    Get cozy in slippers and wrap up in cashmere …..
    Practice self love, cultivate wellbeing, sing, dance and feel like a goddess ….

Happy Winter :)))

Rescue Spa Founder,
Danuta Mieloch

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Au revoir sun damage

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With summer coming to an official end, many of us look in anticipation to the cool and crisp autumn air. What a refreshing change from months of relentless heat and humidity! It’s as if our skin can finally breathe and take a break from the heavy sunscreen, sweat, and harsh UV rays.

But before we know it, that gorgeous tan will start to fade and the lovely summer glow will have all but disappeared. Our skin will be left with the uneven, dull, freckled look of sun damage, a reminder of all those hours spent laying by the poolside or on the beach. So how do we remedy this situation and get our glowing, healthy skin back?

A great post-summer skin fix is the “Expert of Light” line from Valmont. This beautiful line of products is specifically created to boost radiance and even out the complexion to get your skin looking its best. As the crème de la crème of luxury skincare, Valmont prides itself on the research and ingredients that go into their products and the “Expert of Light” line is nothing short of brilliant. It will regenerate, renew and brighten the complexion, while targeting pigmentation and photo damage to give you that luminous healthy glow back in no time.

Having recently tried these products for myself and on my clients, I can honestly that this whole line is impressive and can definitely hold its own as a complete skincare regimen (in addition to professional treatments, of course.)

A quick breakdown of the products:

Illuminating Foamer:  Start your regimen with this luxurious foaming cleanser either in the AM or PM. The pearly formula is quite gentle on the skin, leaving it feeling soft and silky. Due to zinc NMF (natural moisturizing factor) and niacinamide, this cleanser gives an instant boost of radiance, while helping to target dark spots and uneven skin tone.

Illuminating Toner A gradual exfoliating lotion containing salicylic acid to speed up cell renewal and eliminate surface cells with excess pigment. Used morning and night, this toner will help to gradually fade freckles and dark-spots, while preventing further melanin transfer with the potent ingredient niacinamide. Like its cleanser counterpart, this toner also contains zinc NMF to hydrate, soothe and illuminate the skin.

Clarifying Infusion Brightening Serum and Clarifying Touch Pen: An intensive skin-lightening treatment available as an all-over serum or a click- pen for targeted areas and blemish spots. This serum absorbs instantly into the skin and can be used twice a day. (Hint: it’s excellent for under-eyes.) Potent ingredients such as zinc DNA will brighten and fight wrinkles, while hexylresorcinol and niacinamide deliver a one-two punch against melanin production and transfer. In addition, glycolic acid will refine skin texture and further even out the complexion.

Clarifying Surge: A moisturizing cream for all skin types, even oily/combination skin. Armed with zinc DNA, hexylresorcinol and niacinamide, this cream also contains silk tree extract to eliminate toxins that can dull the complexion. The non-greasy formula is perfect for daytime or nighttime, leaving your skin not only ultra smooth, but intensely regenerated and brighter.

Clarifying Pack: This mask, used 1-2 times a week and for only 10 minutes, acts as a mildpeel and makes the skin glow for days. It’s equally effective against clogged pores and acne. Papaya extract, glycolic acid and rice starch gently whisk away layers of sun-damaged skin, while niacinamide and hexylresorcinol once again target pigmentation.

To really get your glow on, I recommend reactivating the product with a small amount of Clarifying Toner and massaging it into the skin prior to rinsing off. Follow with Clarifying Infusion and Clarifying Surge for a complete treatment.

Before you know it, it’s “Au revoir” sun damage.

Joanna Kula, Esthetician

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TRY THIS CULT-FAVE OILY SKIN FIX…


“It’s not exactly a toner, and it’s not quite a serum. But it doesn’t really matter what you call it when you consider that practically every facialist and beauty editor we know is obsessed with Biologique Recherche Lotion P50V. This breakout obliterator has got niacinimide (which controls redness), lactic acid (which cleans out pores), sulfur (which sops up oil and makes your skin produce less of it), and something along the lines of unicorn tears (to account for the nearly supernatural results).”

Allure Magazine

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Spring Renewal

Spring is my favorite time of the year.  It’s the best time to renew your skincare routine. Out with the heavy creams, old makeup, and dead skin. There are many ways to get rid of that dead skin, but my favorite is our High Performance Facial where we perform a heavy duty microdermabrasion followed by a strong peel.  To achieve similar results at home use an exfoliant every other day for 2 weeks followed by an alpha beta peel pad or P50 “1970” with Mc110 as a booster, it really does the trick. I don’t generally recommend over-scrubbing and peeling, yet this time of the year it’s necessary for fresh dewy spring skin.  Switching your moisturizer and serum is appropriate as well. I prefer lighter textures such as Hydra3 Serum and Cream packed with triple hyaluronic acid which naturally occurs in our skin. It’s plumping, hydrating, and rebuilds the skin structure. For those who use hyaluronic injections like Restalyne and Juvederm, hyaluronic acid has been proven to extend the results.  Since I don’t use injectables I love this serum and cream combo for a topical pick-me-up. For my evening routine I’ve been using Corseting Serum and Polymatrix Cream.  This duo is an instant lifter. I’ve noticed smoother lines and tighter pores, it works like Botox in a bottle for me.

With all the wonderful makeup colors this season it’s hard to choose.  As far as I’m concerned anything goes like dark lipstick even reds, it just depends on the mood and the occasion.  Yet skin should be pretty and natural.  I’ve traded my usual foundation for the Unifying Cream by Valmont. It’s the ultimate tinted moisturizer for an instantaneous beauty boost!

Last but not least this time of the year the sun is really dangerous although it doesn’t feel that way. Let’s all remember to use a broad spectrum sunscreen every day!

Esthetician and Owner of Rescue Rittenhouse Spa,

Danuta Mieloch

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Beat the heat & humidity!

With the temperatures heating up and the sun shining long into the evening, it’s safe to say that summer is upon us.  If you feel like you’ve been stuck in a rut take the opportunity to embrace summer as the perfect time to revisit your beauty & skincare routines.  The heat & humidity may bring seemingly endless beauty challenges but don’t fret, we’ll keep you looking cool and collected all summer long. First things first, we all know how important it is to wear broad spectrum sun protection.  Hopefully by now you don’t even think twice about wearing a daily sunscreen on your face and anywhere that your body is exposed to direct sunlight.  But did you know that SPF has an expiration?  If you planned on using the same sunscreens you used last season  I strongly recommend you throw them away and start fresh.  Often times these products sit in your beach bag and endure temperatures and light exposure that are not conducive to normal shelf life. It’s just not worth the risk.  After all using an SPF that is expired defeats the purpose since we can no longer depend on it to protect us from the sun’s harmful rays. While we’re on the topic I know there are those of you who feel as though you’ve sacrificed an enviable golden glow in the name of remaining sun savvy and skin cancer free.  Believe it or not there are a number of ways to achieve that sun kissed glow without the harmful effects of nasty UVA/B’s.  Institut Esthederm’s line of sun care (Adaptasun) is a special patented formula that protects the skin from harmful rays yet allows you to get a bit of color. It’s not your traditional sunblock. Adaptasun actually teaches your skin cells to rev up melanin production hence you obtain a bit of color and utilize your skin’s natural defenses. It’s been a favorite in France for many years and now we’re lucky enough to have it stateside! If you are like me you are already in the habit of dodging the sun so you are porcelain white year round. Yet you’d like a bit of color for summer and those orange spray tans just won’t do. At Rescue we offer a treatment that requires absolutely no work for you other than scheduling a “bronze & buff” appointment! Leave it to our estheticians to scrub & buff your entire body before evenly applying a light, natural looking self tanner that is never streaky. **A very popular treatment for summer brides! The most common question I receive this time of year is “What moisturizer should I be using?” It is a personal preference yet the best rule of thumb is to use something lighter than you used during the winter. I prefer moisturizers with a gel consistency like Biologique Recherche’s ADN Silkgen and Institut Esthederm’s Cellular Water Gel. These are both great for all skin types, hydrate beautifully, yet they do not leave the skin slick or greasy. If your skin is oily and the sweat and humidity are making it seem impossible to stay matte then you’ll want to try switching cleansers to something gentle yet effective such as Sebuwash and incorporating Shine Control Fluid. You may also find that in the summer less is more and all you really need is a multi-tasking serum such as Cellular Concentrate. Wearing this beneath an SPF during the day is a smart way to maintain healthy skin all summer long. If you aren’t diligent about applying a daily SPF and/or you find that they make you breakout try switching to UV incellium spray. It has the equivalent of an SPF 8+ and doesn’t add an extra layer of goop to your face! A great alternative for anyone who is blackhead/breakout prone. Wearing makeup can be pretty tricky in the summer but there are some little tricks that keep it simple.

  1. Switch foundations for tinted moisturizers. My favorite is a multitasking tinted moisturizer by Dr. Dennis Gross that is available for all skin tones and even incorporates an SPF. It honestly doesn’t get any easier than this!
  2. Better than waterproof mascara and eyeliner, switch yours to Blinc. They simply do not run and better yet they are very easy to remove.
  3. Bronzers can be intimidating at first but with the guidance of our makeup artist Maria Gulraiz you can highlight your best facial features, look naturally sun kissed, and define your cheekbones in minutes. (Schedule a consultation: 215.772.2766)
  4. Keep blotting tissues in your handbag. These will come in handy when you feel a bit oily or begin to sweat.
  5. Find a new summer palette to keep your look fresh. This season I’m loving Chantecaille’s Coral Reefs Palette.

Last but certainly not least is the most important beauty trick of all. Drink plenty of water. Hydrate often, stay cool, stay sun savvy, and have a happy summer! Esthetician and Owner of Rescue Rittenhouse Spa, Danuta Mieloch

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GET YOUR GLOW ON… IN WINTER!

Winter is here and so often clients complain of skin that is dry and dull. Their spirit is worn down by winter blues and their skin shows signs of lethargy. So how do I keep my glow you ask? Here it is, inside and out!

First, I start with increasing my colored foods, even if I’m not in the mood. This means eating or drinking more greens, more orange, red and purple. For example a kale salad with beets, orange and red bell peppers, throw in some nuts and you have a party! Two of my favorite local restaurants, Milah and Pure Fare help me keep my diet colorful, especially on the go! Or, my all time favorite is Pangaea Earth Foods, for phyto nutrient packed juices that are fresh, organic and raw! In about a week of incorporating juice supplements into your diet, you will notice a gradual elevation in energy, mood and glowing skin! Promise.

Secondly, I take a Nordic Naturals omega 3, plus D3 supplement daily, this helps with maintaining the skins immune system. It is great for spikes in eczema or psoriasis. Talk to your doctor or nutritionist to see if omega 3’s could benefit you!

Next, you got it , P50 by Biologique Recherche! This product exfoliates, hydrates and evens out skin tone, giving you back that luster.  Here’s a little secret, sometimes in winter if my skin is feeling exceptionally sensitive, I dilute my cotton round with a little water to make the sting a little less intense. It’s a great way to ease the P50 bite during harsh winter months.

Then, of course you must serum!  Serums are equivalent of taking a supplement or vitamin, but on the face. Sometimes, your moisturizer simply can’t do it all. Serums can either go on top of, or underneath of your moisturizer.  Currently I am using Infinite Radiance Essence by Valmont. Ask your esthetician today for suggestions on a serum that’s right for you, mention this blog post and receive 10% off your next serum purchase, or use promo code TIRZAH on shoprescuespa.com for 10% off on your serum purchase.

Finally, I have two products that are truly essential to maintaining my glow in the winter, first, for my face it’s my Bare Minerals All-over Face color.  This is a magical loose powder that I typically use everyday. It has a luminescent quality, great for sensitive skin types, and lightly conceals skin imperfections with out that heavy foundation feel. It’s free of just about everything and it’s high mineral content gives you gentle sun and free radical protection. It’s my secret to keeping my summer glow, even in winter! *must be applied with large cheek brush for best result. Dip, shake and dust.

And last but definitely not least, is Weleda’s Calendula Body Wash For Baby. You don’t have to have kids to buy this product! This is a best kept secret, it’s a baby body wash that I use on my body in the shower daily. It’s wonderful for skin that is sensitive, dry, itchy etc… This body wash is a silky, luxurious texture that is formulated with hand-picked Biodynamic calendula, it soothes dry winter skin, eczema, or if you just want to maintain healthy glowing skin all year long.  Get rid of your pH stripping, hard, moisturizing soaps and give this wonderful healing body wash a whirl!

Well, there you have it, this is how I keep my glow in winter! Try one or all of these suggestions and you won’t be disappointed!

Happy and healthy New Year!


 

 

 

 

Tirzah

 

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Q: How do you use Biologique Recherche product MC 110?


A: MC 110 is a phenomenal product. It complements Biologique Recherche P50 1970 with an exfoliating, restructuring and a toning effect to the skin while plumping and smoothing fine lines and wrinkles. After P50 apply MC 110 to a thin cotton pad using an upward patting & lifting motion. Make sure to apply around the eyes as it gives that instant lift to your eye area. Follow with Fluide VIP O2 and Crème VIP O2, suitable for all skin types. (We at Rescue recommend MC 110 No.2 it is more effective because it is a bit stronger.)

Beauty Aficionado Founder & Aesthetician,
Danuta Mieloch