“I just started the new Biologique Recherche P50 PIGM 400 which specifically treats pigmentation in addition to exfoliation and fighting wrinkles. A few drops on a cotton pad to dab all over face, neck and chest each night (never rub as it may irritate sensitive areas) is all you need (you can work up to twice a day as I have). I promise you will fall in love at the first burn.”
–Reviewed by Cathy N.
Summertime is the time to protect your skin.
Questions regarding hyperpigmentation come up in 7 out of 10 appointments and it’s safe to say that it is one of the main concerns in skin treatment rooms. In this post I would like to discuss the ways to prevent hyperpigmentation and share some of my favorite products to treat this common skin disorder.
Hyperpigmentation is caused by an overproduction of melanin (the pigment that gives our skin, hair and eyes its natural color) in the patches of the skin. It is a skin condition that affects every ethnic background and skin tone and is mostly associated with aging. Pregnancy or hormonal fluctuations, UV radiation and photo aging, chemical or UV burn, genetics and allergies are just some of the more typical factors.
Daily use of a broad spectrum sun protection is a sure way to prevent hyperpigmentation caused by exposure to the damaging sun rays. Exfoliation is essential to reduce the build of dead skin cells and to promote skin cell regeneration for brighter skin every day.
Active Ingredients to look for in products are:
- Alpha/Beta Hydroxy Acids
- Kojic Acid
- Azelaic Acid
- Glabridin/Licorice Root Extract
- Epidermal Growth Factor
Some of my personal favorite treatments to combat hyperpigmentation include:
Biologique Recherche Lait VIP O2 is an “antipollution” cleanser that brightens and unifies the complexion, eliminates impurities and calms the epidermis.
Biologique Recherche P50 PIGM400 is the newest formulation of the beloved P50. It enhances epidermal renewal and helps regulate melanin synthesis while respecting and protecting the skin. Lightens the skin, reduces the size of pigmentation marks and prevents them from appearing. Inhibits melanin synthesis. Improves the strength and quality of the epidermis. Unifies and brightens the complexion. Balances pH on the skin’s surface.
Valmont Clarifying Infusion Brightening Serum is an ultra-concentrated treatment that decreases melanin production and fights hyperpigmentation. It increases skin brightness and complexion evenness to reveal perfectly even-toned skin.
Serum PIGM 400 is a brightening, spot-correcting serum that illuminates the complexion and fights free radicals. It is my personal favorite. Paired with Creme PIGM 400, this powerful duo fights pigmentation and reveals glowing complexion.
Clarifying Lotion and Intensive C Boost by Environ is another great combination for combating visible skin pigmentation. The Clarifying Lotion is a light, non-oily lotion that nourishes the skin with important water-soluble ingredients that inhibit the production of melanin. It maintains the skin’s natural acid mantle and can either be used on small, easily defined pigment blemishes, or as a whole face and neck solution for extensive uneven skin tone. The Intensive C-Boost contains a powerful form of vitamin C ideal for sun damage, pigmentation, fine lines and capillaries as well as for the maintenance of a healthy skin.
Environ Revival Masque is a powerful combination of Lactic, Mandelic and Asiatic acids formulated to target the effects of photo-damaged skin and the appearance of uneven skin texture.
The Beautigenix Brightening Mask is a Korean sheet mask that reduces the appearance of sun and age spots, removes signs of fatigue, gives skin a radiant and brighter look, evens skin tone and texture – also improves mild acne. All and all, a perfect on the go solution for someone who has uneven skin tone, dark spots or sun damaged skin.
MBR Beta-Enzyme is a gel-masque based on mild hydroxy acids in combination with a papain enzyme complex for smooth, clear and more radiant skin.
Cellcosmet Ultra Brightening Elasto-Collagen XT is a real anti-pigmentation face-lift that resculpts the skin injecting it with hydration. Packed full of scientifically selected ingredients, the Ultra Brightening Elasto-Collagen XT serum with its concentration of 15% active stabilized bio-integral cells and expert brightening complex, delivers a complete firming and brightening solution. Whether used as an occasional 12-day treatment or throughout the year, Cellcosmet Ultra Brightening Elasto-Collagen XT revitalizes, progressively lightens natural skin tone, redefines and intensely hydrates the face, neck and décolleté area. The skin’s firmness and ability to bounce back are visibly improved, pigmentary spots visibly attenuated while the facial contours are resculpted and the oval of the face redefined.
- Post Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH) is one of the more difficult types of pigmentation to get rid off. These red or brown regions of pigment are usually associated with acne, chemical burns, eczema or dermatitis. One of my favorite products to tackle it is Sebuspot by Environ – a mild gel for use on inflamed areas of the skin. It helps reduce congestion and residual redness while at the same time drying up skin blemishes.
Biologique Recherche Creme PIGM 400 is a concentrate of brightening, anti-age spot and protective ingredients. Its multipolar formulation helps correct existing pigmentation imperfections and prevents new age spots from forming. The complexion becomes increasingly luminous and the skin appears more even. Best when paired with Serum PIGM 400.
Institute Esthederm Clarity System Whitening Brightening Repair Day Cream regenerates and restructures the skin, protects, prevents photo-aging, cell damage and the risk of redness and inflammation.
MBR Luminous Pearl Extreme works on delivering both multi-active anti-aging effects as well as a perfectly balanced and illuminated complexion.
Summer time is the prime time to protect your skin and prevent stubborn hyperpigmentation caused by excessive sun exposure. Wear a hat, polarized sunglasses and be mindful when out and about. You only have one skin, take care of it now and enjoy the compliments later!
While common skin ailments are troublesome no matter what stage of life you’re in, they can feel especially exacerbated when you have a wedding on the horizon. You’re of course your own worst critic and things are often not as bad as you perceive, but the idea of high-definition photography and hundreds and pairs of eyes examining you can leave even the most low-key bride nervous. Lucky for us, Danuta Mieloch, Esthetician and owner of Rescue Spa (soon opening an NYC location!), filled us in on what you can do to correct almost any problem plaguing your appearance. Keep in mind that according to Danuta, “It takes daily self-discipline to cleanse, exfoliate, treat, moisturize, and protect your skin to achieve the goal of perfection. The sooner you get started, the better!”
While avoiding direct sunlight should always be the goal, this isn’t always a practical (or fun!) solution. However, unsightly skin damage very well may result. “Lighter skin tends to develop freckles and sunspots, whereas darker skin becomes patchy and shadowed. Luckily, there are several options to correct this, but know that not all spots can be treated equally.”
Many treatments like hydroquinone and RetinA can be rather harsh and actually increase the problem. To be on the safe side, start with a balancing and regulating skincare regimen while slowly introducing more acting ingredients. “Retinol is not as harsh as RetinA, and should be used up to two nights a week. This will work especially well when alternated with Vitamin C and IPL treatments. Biologique Recherche’s Lotion P50 Pigm 400 is a product you can safely use daily. Rather than hydroquinone, it uses kojic acid and niacinamide to effectively reduce pigmentation while still respecting and protecting the skin.”
Unfortunately with this ailment, patience is the key. “Whenever pigmentation doesn’t respond quickly to treatment, it means the damage is deep and will take time to surface. Often times during treatment it can appear darker before it begins to lighten.”
Acne doesn’t just plague the face, and spots on the chest and back are certainly not what you want people looking at when you’re in your dress. “To cleanse hard to reach places, rely on the genius Aquis Back Scrubber. Lotion P50 1970 should be applied across any problem area to remove every trace of sweat and oil buildup, the major cause of acne. To further treat, try Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare All Over Blemish Solution.”
If you’re noticing this problem more than normal leading up to your wedding, you very well may have your amped up SoulCycle routine to blame. Make sure to shower as soon as possible after every workout.
While some at-home exfoliating treatments will help to lessen scarring caused by acne, serious results are best achieved by the pros. “This is especially well treated by clinical laser treatments as well as regular professional microdermabrasion to soften and smooth your skin,” explains Mieloch.
Unless your dress is long-sleeved, you want your arms to be in tip-top shape before your walk down the aisle. Those pesky red bumps that plague so many is a condition called keratosis pilaris, caused by a buildup of keratin. “My go-to treatment is P50 Corps as well as dermalac lotion to remove the dead skin cells,” says Mieloch. “Follow with a good body moisturizer since this condition is more likely to appear if you have dry skin.”
Written by Casey Sharbaugh for Over The Moon
Photographed by Paul Reynolds Photography
Biologique Recherche Lotion P50 PIGM 400 helps reduce the appearance of existing hyperpigmentation marks, and helps prevent new ones from forming.
The main difference in the formula is that P50 PIGM 400 contains a higher concentration of niacinamide, my favorite ingredient for evening out skin tone (it really works!). There’s lactic acid in here, of course, along with the new addition of mandelic acid, and a variety of botanical extracts that specifically help with brightening and regulating melanin synthesis.
Plus, you get the same mild exfoliation, sebum regulation, anti-dullness and smoothing benefits that we know and love from P50. If you’re new to this type of product, start by applying it on a damp cotton pad for the first week. After your skin gets accustomed to it, you can use it on a dry pad, twice a day after cleansing.
Water (Aqua), Glycerin, Niacinamide, Sodium Gluconate, Lactic Acid, Sodium Lactate, Lactobacillus/Wasabia Japonica Root Ferment Extract, Magnesium Chloride, Mandelic Acid, Phytic Acid, Citric Acid, Gluconolactone, Magnesium Sulfate, Propylene Glycol, Palmaria Palmata Extract, Levulinic Acid, Salicylic Acid, Sodium Salicylate, Spiraea Ulmaria Extract, Vinegar (Acetum), Sodium Levulinate, Phenoxyethanol, Alcohol Denat., Microcitrus Australasica Fruit Extract, Prunus Persica (Peach) Leaf Extract, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Ascorbic Acid, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract, Rubus Idaeus (Raspberry) Fruit Extract.
Like a Facial in a Bottle!
Lotion P50 PIGM 400 is an exfoliating and brightening lotion that is ideal for dull complexions with hyperpigmentation and dark spots.
“A cult favorite, P50 is a magic potion that does it all. Exfoliates, Hydrates, and Balances the pH of the skin, it’s a prep step before any skincare.” – Danuta Mieloch
It enhances epidermal renewal and helps regulate melanin synthesis while respecting and protecting the skin. This is a complete solution that helps to recover a luminous and radiant skin with an even and lightened complexion. Removes dead cells and impurities on a daily basis. Enhances epidermal renewal. Lightens the skin, reduces the size of pigmentation marks and prevents them from appearing. Inhibits melanin synthesis. Improves the strength and quality of the epidermis. Unifies and brightens the complexion. Balances pH on the skin’s surface. Improves the efficacity of the other Biologique Recherche products used after it.
What is the connection between PH and good skin?
Epidermal PH is usually acid reflecting the good status of the natural moisturizing factor, and the acid mantle of the skin (anti-microbial shield and chemical protection screen). However, the epidermis PH may vary considerably during the day, suffering from different artifacts. Epidermal surface PH is difficult to monitor and not always the best parameter for assessing the health of epidermis.
What makes the skin tingle when using P50?
When the epidermis is unbalanced, patients feel the acidity of the solution, causing the skin-tingling sensation. Once you reach a balance, this sensation will disappear.
What is the meaning of the name P50?
The P can be used for potion or peeling (the first name of the product was Lotion P1970, then P50, P50V, and P50W were developed).
- PARABEN FREE
- Size: (Travel) 1.07 oz / 5.1 oz. / 8.5 oz.
- Featured in NY Times and Huffington Post
- We recommend P50 while pregnant or breastfeeding. Please consult your doctor if you wish to continue using P50 1970 while pregnant or breastfeeding.
“You’ve seen it dot many a photograph on Into The Gloss, but P50 still pulls a lot of mystique with people who don’t get facials with Aida Bicaj. Here’s the breakdown: It’s an exfoliating toner with lactic and salicylic acid, and it’ll give you the glowiest skin of your life. It’s also not as expensive as you think it is.”
As it’s getting warmer outside, our skin is becoming a lot more vulnerable to the sun. During this time of year, my goal as a beauty professional is to educate every single client on the importance of sun protection and raise awareness around skin cancer.
In case you didn’t know, here are some of the major benefits of SPF:
1. Studies show sunscreen decreases the development of skin cancer
2. It helps to prevent hyperpigmentation and reduces blotchiness
3. Sunscreen slows down the development of premature aging skin (I may not have enjoyed the cloudy Seattle weather, but living there, I learned one big beauty lesson: sun damage is the biggest contributor.
It is important to protect your skin from both UVA and UVB radiation. Ultraviolet A causes premature aging and wrinkling of the skin and ultraviolet B is linked to the development of skin cancer and melanoma. These are some of the reasons to choose a broad-spectrum sunscreen that protects both from UVA and UVB rays. I prefer physical sunscreens (also called mineral sunscreens) that contain Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide. These provide some of the most comprehensive coverage and work by deflecting the sun radiation from your skin and are often referred to as physical blockers.
Chemical sunscreens are wildly available to consumers as well with Avobenzone, Oxybenzone and Homosalate as some of the most common ingredients. Chemical sunscreens act as absorbers and create a chemical reaction and work by changing UV rays into heat and releasing that heat from the skin.
Physical sunscreens offer protection against both rays and protect from the sun as soon as it’s applied, last longer in direct UV light and are less likely to clog the pores. Chemical sunscreens tend to be much thinner and with such a formula it’s easier to add additional treatment ingredients such as peptides and enzymes. It is up to you as a consumer to pick the one that works best for your lifestyle.
Regardless of your choice, here are some of my favorites:
- Jan Marini Physical Protectant SPF 45
- Biologique Recherche Protection U.V. (SPF 25+)
- 3lab Hydra Day SPF 20
- 3lab Perfect Lite Sunscreen SPF 30 (ideal for even the most sensitive skin and children 6mo+)
Other sun protection tips to remember:
- Protect your lips by using lip balm or lipstick that contains SPF 30 or higher
- Reapply sunscreen to your entire body every 2 hours if out in the sun
- Wear sunglasses with 100% UV absorption to protect your eyes and the surrounding skin
- Limit your sun exposure between 10AM and 4PM
- Do not use tanning beds
Enjoy the sun responsibly,